Plate to Palate | The Continental at Pacific Place has delightful dishes, but dull ones too

Earlier this year, the six-year-old Domani restaurant in Pacific Place closed its doors and the space reopened a few months later as The Continental. The stand-alone structure retained its light and airy spaciousness — it's a beautiful spot — but gone was the Italian menu, to be replaced by one that had European and British influences.

The dishes we tried were either very good, or really unexciting. In the former category, the cep and potato pancake with griddled foie gras and sauternes jus (HK$225) was wonderfully indulgent. The pancake was soft and creamy, the foie gras was rich, soft and wobbly, and the cep mushrooms were slightly chewy, with the intense sauce tying everything together. Conchiglioni pasta with short ribs and gremolata (HK$145) was another hit, with tender meat that had absorbed the delicious sauce. The chocolate soufflé (HK$115) we had at the end of the meal was airy and delicate.

While the griddled squid (HK$125) was tender, it was served on a bed of rocket that was too plentiful (in proportion to the squid) and underdressed. The partridge (HK$390) came with two pieces of shot (proof that it was wild), but it didn't have much flavour, and the leg meat was tough and dry; surprisingly, the breast meat was better. The pain perdu (HK$85) was so dry we wondered if it had been soaked in any egg/milk mixture. The roasted pineapple served with it was lovely and intense, though.

Service, at least from the men, was inattentive. We had to ask for our water glasses to be refilled, we had to ask for the dessert menu (it should be offered automatically) and much of the time we were ignored. The female staff were much friendlier and helpful.