Prince Edward: a melting pot of old and new Hong Kong

It's past lunchtime, but 7-Up is full nonetheless, its customers packed into narrow wooden booths and small circular tables, steam rising from bowls of noodle soups. Among the customers is singer-songwriter Jing Wong and his sister, fashion designer Kay Wong, who have lived nearby for several years. "I think this is the real centre of Hong Kong," says Jing. "You can be anywhere in less than an hour, even Shenzhen. And for creative people it's close to all the material goods."

Prince Edward is more of a crossroads than a neighbourhood, a place that knits together all the threads of Hong Kong life. Its shops draw people from across the city, but it's also a haven for those seeking affordable space in a central location. While it boasts a number of famous attractions, including Goldfish Street, the Yuen Po Bird Garden and the Flower Market, it is also a breeding ground for more eccentric enterprises.

COFFEE AND FLOWERS

Start the day at Hung Wan, one of a dying breed of classic cha chaan teng that still maintain their original 1960s decor. The food is exactly what you'd expect — sandwiches, rice dishes, pineapple buns — but the neighbourhood atmosphere is something to be cherished. If you're more inclined towards espresso than a local-style coffee, make your way to the Flower Market, where the baristas at Cafe Hay Fever pull an excellent shot in the back of a flower shop.

Hay Fever marks an interesting step in the evolution of the Flower Market. People have been selling flowers here for more than a century, but its history as a retail destination is relatively recent. Much of the shift from wholesale to retail can be attributed to rising rents and gentrification — a process that will only accelerate, now that the Urban Renewal Authority is buying up the area's collection of art deco shophouses.

To the URA's credit, this isn't one of those tear-down projects that have earned such a nasty reputation. Instead, the authority is restoring the shophouses and leasing them out to social enterprises and independent businesses. The first building to be restored, 204 Prince Edward Road, was built in 1932 and is now managed by the Hong Kong Council of Social Service, which has dubbed it GoodPoint.

On the ground floor, you'll find Zen in Five Seasons, a teahouse that makes great use of the space's extra-high ceilings through diffuse lighting and tall wooden shelves. Upstairs, with Umbrella Movement stickers pointedly displayed on the door, Wecons specialises in fair trade products, locally-grown produce and organic goodies such as Taiwanese vinegar and local pickled garlic.