Ready for take-off
The spring/summer runways usher in a fresh crop of must-try make-up looks, writes Tama Lung
Exaggerated eyes are always a key trend at fashion weeks across the globe and few make-up artists can bring something new to the table like Pat McGrath. The British icon created the "Techno Butterfly" look for Raf Simons' first ready-to-wear collection for Dior by using vivid shades of violet, fuschia, green and blue.
"The look draws attention to the eyes with intense geometric colours, studded with 'bursts' of Swarovski crystals in matching or contrasting shades," says McGrath, who "let the full pop of colour explode" by leaving the skin, lips, lashes and brows natural.
Linda Cantello, international make-up artist for Giorgio Armani, put her spin on spring with a mix of muted and vibrant eye colours. "At the Giorgio Armani spring-summer 2013 show, I used a soft grey tone to create a muted graphic shape, then a thick liner was drawn with Swimming Pool Turquoise blue, then blended with the taupe," she says.
"This gives a soft pop of glamorous, sensual colour. Any woman can wear it."
Those looking to experiment at home have a number of new products to try, including Shu Uemura's Blossom Dream collection and its colourful lashes and palettes, and Lunasol's Vivid Clear Eyes palettes in blue-green, pink, orange, khaki-beige and pink-beige.
Bright pops of colour weren't limited to eyes this season, with several designers sending their models down the runway in nothing but bold red lips.
"Bold lips on a bare face have become a beauty classic, but they went a step further this season," says M.A.C make-up artist Terry Barber.
"Last season's aristocratic reds were replaced with more futurist, subversive neons. This is about a very modernist twist on perspective, softening the face whilst sharpening the focus of the lip."
To offset Prada's black-and-white looks, McGrath opted for highly pigmented lips lined with red pencil and filled with a blend of red and pink. At Jason Wu, make-up artist Diane Kendal was inspired by legendary photographer Helmut Newton to create a strong matte lip. She used M.A.C lip pencils in Cherry and Vino, layering them pink and red with Mineralize Rich Lipsticks and setting the look with a neo-orange pigment.
The trend in more opaque lips is also reflected in Clinique's new Chubby Stick Intense Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm with its increased blend of pigments, and Laura Mercier's long-wearing Lip Pencils and medium- to full-coverage Crème Smooth Lip Colour.
To get the matte look that's in fashion this season, simply blot with tissues after each step of application.
At shows from Tory Burch to Prabal Gurung to Giambattista Valli, the look of the season was clear, luminous skin and nothing else. Eyes and lips had the lightest wash of colour to keep the focus firmly on the face.
"Skin is perfect in texture, tone, finish and radiance, but is still touchable and realistic," says make-up artist Gordon Espinet.
"It's really about the skin looking perfectly taken care of and having the beauty of a Renaissance portrait."
Charlotte Tilbury achieved the "ethereal and haunted" look at Prabal Gurung with liquid foundation, M.A.C Sculpting Creams for contour and a highlighter above the cheekbones and over the eyelids. Lashes and lips were left bare, with only a touch of concealer.
Achieving the flawless look takes some work, especially if you have age spots or other imperfections to correct. But several products can make the process easier, including Bobbi Brown's Corrective Spot Treatment, which includes fruit extracts to brighten skin over time.
Layered with a sheer foundation such as Giorgio Armani's Face Fabric and a few swipes of Tom Ford Beauty's Shade & Illuminate, skin looks polished, perfected and ready to face spring.