High impact: Dramatic lips and eyes take to autumn runways

Metallic accents, wine-stained pouts and creative eye shadow are the season's top make-up trends, writes Tama Lung.

PUBLISHED : Tuesday, 27 August, 2013, 12:00am
UPDATED : Wednesday, 05 February, 2014, 5:20pm



Whether a wash of soft gold or a swath of platinum sequins, metallic accents were out in force on the autumn/winter runways.

"I wanted to create just an effortless, beautiful face," says Estée Lauder's creative make-up director Tom Pecheux, who used nude metallic shadows on models' eyebrows to lashes for Derek Lam's San Francisco-inspired fashion show. "This appears very flat, like a two-dimensional painting on a canvas, yet it catches the light on the runway and gives eyes a very unusual effect."

Pecheux achieved the "sophisticated, minimal urban hippie" look by using his fingers to apply the eye make-up. "The reason is because the colour is very metallic, so it's very shimmery. When you grab eye shadow with a fluffy brush it becomes very flaky, whereas when you grab it with your finger it sticks on your finger, so it is very easy to blend," he says.

At Chanel, former creative director of make-up Peter Philips lined the upper lashes with platinum sequins. "I wanted to reproduce the sparkle that features throughout the collection," he says. "It was so much fun playing with this oversized glitter and making a look that truly stands out against an amazing décor, yet remains in tune with the mood of the collection."

A number of brands offer all manner of metallics this season, including Estée Lauder, Giorgio Armani, Dior, M.A.C and IPSA.

From left: Diorshow Fusion Mono in Chimère, IPSA Eye Color Contrast in A18, SpaRitual Nail Lacquer in Ha Ha, and Estée Lauder Pure Color Instant Intense Eyeshadow Trio in Steel Lilacs




From bright berry to deep burgundy, the lip colours of choice this season seemed to come straight from a bottle of Bordeaux. Make-up artist Maud Laceppe used a currant-coloured lip liner from M.A.C, blended with black and purple tones, to create the "1990s sophisticated punk chic" look at Vivienne Tam.

At Miu Miu, ombre oxblood lips were set against matte skin and slicked-back hair for the European-inspired fashion collection. Estée Lauder's Tom Pecheux, meanwhile, worked his magic at Anthony Vaccarello with wine-coloured lip liner layered with Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture and Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Forbidden Apple.

"I created a monochromatic make-up look with a strong focus on lips, using deep burgundy, and repeated it on lids for moody eyes," he says. "This intense pop of colour is striking against perfectly matte skin, pale and translucent."

With everything from liners to glosses to lipsticks showing up in shades of wine, there's no shortage of ways to re-create the look at home. Look to brands like Tom Ford, BareMinerals, Giorgio Armani and Shiseido for bold yet wearable options.

Linda Cantello, international make-up artist for Giorgio Armani Beauty, suggests dabbing lipstick on with light strokes to create a "sensual, natural" stain of colour.

From left: Tom Ford Lip Color in Bruised Plum, Giorgio Armani Rouge d'Armani in 610, M.A.C Sheen Supreme Lipglass Tint in Glorious Intent, and BareMinerals Marvelous Moxie Lip Liner in Electrified




And now for something a little different - the autumn/winter shows were also a chance for make-up artists to flex their creative muscles. Tom Pecheux created an androgynous look with a graphic smoky eye for Elie Saab.

He used products by M.A.C, including Prep+Prime Transparent Finishing Powder, Extended Play Lash mascara and a blend of dark eye shadows, the latter of which he extended beyond the inner and outer corners of the eyes while keeping the rest of the face neutral and matte.

At Max Mara, the eye colours played off the mostly monochrome collection of camels, browns and blues. A brownish-ochre shadow was used on the eyelids, while a soft blue was smudged under the eyes. The lack of mascara and blush made the colours pop even more.

Other creative make-up looks included dramatic winged liner paired with dots under the eyes at Anna Sui, purple raccoon-like shadow at Gucci, and mismatched neon lips at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.

Inspiration came from all over, with Kakuyasu Uchiide, international artistic director for Shu Uemura and creator of the look for Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, taking his cues from Hamlet's Ophelia and pre-Raphaelite paintings.

Follow his lead and choose bold colours and innovative textures from brands such as Laneige, Clinique, M.A.C and Dior.

From left: Dior 5 Couleurs Mystic Metallics in Bonne Etoile, Laneige Art Play Waterproof Liner in Ideal Silver and Real Purple, Clinique Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eyes in Lavish Lilac and M.A.C Pressed Pigments Eye Shadow in Pink Pepper