Riding the senses
View 62 by Paco Roncero
62/F, Hopewell Centre
183 Queen's Road East
View 62 by Paco Roncero takes your senses for a ride. First, it's the exciting journey up the glass lift from the 17th to the 62nd floor of the Hopewell Centre, and then it's soaking up the 360-degree panoramic view from the revolving restaurant.
However, the main focus is on the food, and at present there are set lunch and dinner menus. For the HK$1,400 dinner, there are 14 courses, but the first half are one piece each, such as philo pizza, basically phyllo pastry made into a thin stick and covered in tomato powder, and caramelised pork shin, which was like a sugary sweet chip. There's also olive oil butter to squeeze out of a mini tube.
The slow-cooked salmon was very smooth, with a deconstructed tartar sauce of mayonnaise, capers and olive oil caviar.
We also liked the tenderness of the braised beef shank with potato puree and black olive oil. Perhaps the most intriguing was the carbonara egg nest that no chicken could have cooked up, as it was made with parmesan cheese and beef consomme.
To end the meal, dollops of chocolate mousse were rolled in a bowl of liquid nitrogen to create a hard and soft dessert, but this was difficult to break open with a spoon. Nevertheless, the petit fours were fun, including chocolate that had the sensation like pop rocks in the mouth and olive oil jelly.
The extensive wine list is on the iPad and Lady's Choice (HK$180) is prosecco with fruit-flavoured jellies.