Flawed genius

Dynasty 8
Level 1, Sands Cotai central
Cotai Strip
Macau
(853) 8113 8920
www.sandscotaicentral.com

Conrad Macau's Dynasty 8 offers a variety of Chinese cuisines, particularly Cantonese. That's because chef Wong Man is originally from Hong Kong's Tim's Kitchen, which has one Michelin star (down from two). Wong does classics well, such as the double-boiled superior soup with fish maw, bamboo pith and mustard kale, whose rich flavour suggests it has simmered for a long time, as with the dessert of red date, wood fungus and lily bulbs.
Then he experiments with intriguing flourishes; some of which work well, others not so. The steamed crab claw with egg white in Chinese wine features egg whites that are silky smooth and the crab claw is a hearty meal in itself.

The sauteed chicken with diced goose liver and peppercorns worked quite well, while the wok-fried crystal king prawn was very meaty, and over the top, sitting in a bed of abalone sauce that was garnished with a few slices of truffle. The meal was redeemed by the fried red and white rice with sweet corn, dried turnips, spring onions and pine nuts - a very healthy combination and too good not to finish.