MagazinesGood Eating

Hit and miss menu

John Carney

 

HARRINGTON'S
1/F, HO LEE COMMERCIAL BUILDING
17 LAN KWAI FONG
CENTRAL
2522 1823
WWW.CASTELOCONCEPTS.COM

 

If you are seeking a relaxed evening meal in the heart of Hong Kong's club land, you could do worse than drop into this stylish restaurant in Lan Kwai Fong.

The massive menu tries to cater for all tastes, but it's so huge it's difficult to cover all the bases, and so it proved here - some dishes hit the mark, while others were a letdown.

Our starters of chicken liver pâté with toasted baguette and berry compote (HK$160), and crab cakes with aioli (HK$190) got the night off to a perfect start. The sweet and tart compote complemented the pâté perfectly and the crab cakes melted in the mouth.

The main courses were a mixed bag. The wild mushroom risotto with truffle oil (HK$150) was creamy and delicious, but the sage roasted pork belly with roast vegetables and baked apple (HK$170) was dry and overdone.

Dessert was Eton Mess, made of meringue with whipped cream and fresh strawberries (HK$80), and crème caramel with ginger snaps (HK$65). Both were a little bland and didn't live up to some of the dishes that went before.

However, it was the extensive and very reasonably priced wine list that made up for any failings. 

 

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