This new kid on the block is out to impress and, boy, does it make a rip-roaring start. Walk past the bar and push on to the gastronomic lair behind an unassuming grey door. Tables, booths and a high-stool bar await. Impeccable service falters only when our waiter is stretched by another table.
The cocktail list mirrors the interiors. The Don Old Fashioned (HK$120) tips its hat to Mad Men while the signature Sociarita (HK$105) persuades a non-tequila drinker to embrace new spirits. My favourite cocktail was La Turista (HK$95), creamy and fruity.
The food is equally impressive. The duo of wagyu (HK$175) with carpaccio and tartare makes this former vegetarian shiver with joy at her new ways. The wagyu tacos (HK$135) and pulled pork burgers (HK$80) continue the heavenly path. The foie gras tostada (HK$120) was a heavy offering but a little too oily. The scallop mojo (HK$310) with fried chocolate will linger long after the fresh ocean flavours have gone.
SHOP 2, G/F, THE CENTRIUM
60 WYNDHAM STREET