Light touch

Innovative, modern dishes benefit from Cantonese influences

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 20 March, 2013, 12:00am
UPDATED : Sunday, 24 March, 2013, 12:04am

level 2, The Shops at The Boulevard
City of Dreams
Cotai, Macau
+853 8868 2822


Surely destined to become part of Macau's elite restaurant scene, complete with Michelin stars, this tightly conceived "Cantonese" eatery is a brilliant twin for Crown Tower's other outstanding restaurant, the French-orientated Tasting Room.

Its main thrust is the use of as much organic and high-quality produce as possible, complemented by the emphasis on vegetables over meat, its development of a range of seasonal herbal soups, and the overall lightness of the food.

Cantonese appears here in inverted commas because there's plenty of playing with concepts in the creation of this modern and healthful food.

XO sauce is made with the finest 36-month-old Iberico ham; the most deliciously tender lychee wood-roasted chicken is served with lime to cut through any remaining fat; and micro-greens sit on steamed rice rolls. Perfectly formed crab meat dumplings are scented with white truffle, while double-boiled soup featuring matsutake mushrooms is the ultimate in oil-free purity.

Presentation is precise, such as juxtaposing individual pieces of corn (organic from Hong Kong) in steamed melon rings with a beetroot broth.

Perhaps the most innovative element of all comes at dessert time: these Asian-flavoured inspirations must be seen to be believed but, most importantly, tasted. Annabel Jackson