Sure bets

Diners can embark on a tour of global cuisine amid glamorous backdrops in Macau

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 19 June, 2013, 12:00am
UPDATED : Tuesday, 18 June, 2013, 10:12pm

PERFECT BLEND

 

The conceptualisation of pink on the front of the menu – “fire is at the heart of pink” and so on – is a bit pretentious, but this towering space is quite lovely, with its pale wooden floor and slate-grey interior. It looks very Thai, which renders the weighty menu a bit of a worry. Talk about “something for everyone” – a dried abalone dish goes for HK$2,288, while the leek and potato soup is HK$88. There’s bird’s nest, Alaskan king crab, Boston lobster and A5 Kagoshima Kobe steak. The dishes are so true to themselves, that whatever cuisine they emanate from, they seem to come from separate kitchens. A simple appetiser of rice crackers (very crispy) with a minced pork and shrimp dip achieves that perfect Thai balance of spicy and sour with just a touch of sweet. The steamed tofu and mushrooms with egg white sauce is a super combination with great textures. And from the “Pink” grill, the grilled South Australian sea bass fillet has a sweet and crispy skin, and is served with small and tender potatoes still in their skins, and unusually delicious tomatoes. Annabel Jackson

 

PINK GRILL
SHOP 1026, SHOPPES COTAI CENTRAL
SANDS COTAI CENTRAL
ESTRADA DO ISTMO
COLOANE-TAIPA
MACAU
(853) 2885 2928
PINKGRILL.COM

 


 

AQUATIC SOJOURN

 

If you've visited Le Bar Bat in Paris or Sketch in London, and remember the sheer drama of these spaces, get to Belon. In last year's International Hotel & Property Awards, the interior won the "Restaurant Within a Hotel" award. Enter down a shimmering sea-blue staircase, walk under a whale-bone archway, and check out the massive conch shells. The ceilings soar, and the whole space glitters like the Pacific Ocean in late afternoon. But is it possible to create an eating experience which complements this environment? The "salt buffet" is a supertouch - including, naturally, the top-notch pink Himalayan. The restaurant would benefit from more of such clever and surprising details - picking out your own steak knife is another bit of fun. A dish like the tuna, given the molecular treatment so that it self-smokes in front of you, is probably along the right lines, but mushroom ravioli - though in a pure and delicious porcini broth - is somewhat pedestrian. Perhaps the way to go is to tuck into the day's fresh oysters from which the restaurant takes its name, sprinkle salt on your piece of buttered bread, and pop open a bottle of Champagne. Annabel Jackson

 

BELON
31/F, BANYAN TREE MACAU
GALAXY MACAU
COTAI
MACAU
(853) 8883 6090
BANYANTREE.COM

 


 

SIMPLY DELICIOUS

 

Terrazza is well laid out, offering different "moods" depending on where you sit. It has a lovely wine cellar, and a good enough whisky bar next door. So far, so good. It's been through a few incarnations, but now finally seems to be hitting the spot, with a commitment to just one "concept": modern Italian. There's a strong sense that it is all about the food now, with more of an emphasis on organic produce. The wide, open and scrupulously clean kitchen, where the chefs can be seen expertly doing their thing, reinforces the fact that food is king here. The plating of tender black cod, perfectly salted, with Romaine lettuce and a pizzaiola sauce is as refreshingly unpretentious as it gets. Tortelli, with slightly sour goat ricotta accented by the sweetness of peas and a fun parsley foam, is perfect comfort food. A modern take on Pappa al Pomodoro with marinated sea bass and red onion is a "not quite salad" with a great balance between richness and acidity, and it's just so fresh. Herbs delightfully pop up everywhere, even in the desserts, where an "herb sponge" - think sage - is paired with chocolate. It is a lovely dish along that modern Italian road. Annabel Jackson

 

TERRAZZA
SHOP 201, 2/F, GALAXY HOTEL
COTAI
MACAU
(853) 8883 2221
GALAXYMACAU.COM

 


 

 

 
 
 

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