Elegant interior decked with Chinese pottery and paintings. The restaurant was full when we visited on a Friday evening, but the tables were well-spaced for privacy.

About HK$1,800 for a three-course dinner for two, including a cold dish and house wine by the glass.

Family, friends and business associates.

The layered silk tofu with gold leaf, a rich Chinese olive sauce, chilled was a good starter. While the tofu, fully covered by a gold foil, has little flavour in itself, the two layers of slightly sweet and sour and Chinese olive sauce refreshed the chilled dish. The water chestnut with black tree fungus, red bell pepper and celery was appetising and expertly sautéed to retain the natural taste and colour of the vegetables, especially the fresh lily bulbs and crispy black fungus. We also liked the slightly bitter taste of ginkgo. The rice quintet comprised morel mushroom, enoki mushroom, reishi mushroom, ginkgo and carrots. It was a steamed fried rice cooked with different kinds of mushrooms, including the expensive morel variety, which was extremely aromatic. We enjoyed the dish although the portion was smaller than we expected.

The honey-glazed walnuts with sesame were too sweet.

A selection of Chinese tea, Champagne, red and white wines. The red and white wines are also sold by the glass (from HK$115) and cellar selections can be paired with dishes on the menu.