Cochin unfurls winning combination of simple French dishes and great wines at Peel Street establishment
Tracey Furniss
COCHIN
26 Peel Street, Central, 2561 3336
New kid on the Peel Street block, Cochin, is a rustic French deli/restaurant and bar serving simple French dishes and great wines.
The walls, tables and part of the floor area are in colourful Moorish-style tiles with wooden accents. Chef and director Renaud Marin, previously with Michelin-star chef Philippe Orrico at Upper Modern Bistro and St George, uses the best ingredients.
Having said that, we started with something out of a tin, an excellent Spanish tuna in the best quality olive oil accompanied by pickles - Marin's grandmother's recipe - and baby gem (HK$155), with a bucket of home-made bread. The tuna and olive oil were silky smooth and melted in the mouth and the pickles added the crunch. We then went for the rabbit and foie gras pie with baby gem (HK$235). The pastry on this warming dish was perfectly cooked - brown and flaky on the top with the rabbit and foie gras flavours, smooth yet strong and blending well.
The grass-fed rib-eye (M3) steak with mustard and relish (HK$385), served out of a pan was tender and flavourful and we chose sides of mash and vegetables (HK$70 each). We ended with rum baba (HK$125) and lemon meringue tart (HK$130) - both delicious - and tea.
Sadly, we couldn't fit in the cheese course before the dessert so we will have to go back again for a wine and cheese tasting. We loved this restaurant in SoHo. Service was friendly, and we did not wait long between courses.
