Fare A fusion that executive chef Vicky Cheng calls Chinese x French. Ambience A chic, dark, semi-formal space bisected lengthways by an open-plan kitchen buzzing with academic concentration. Most patrons perch at the bar on high chairs to observe the goings-on; there are a few small tables too. Cost HK$1,480 a head. Who to bring Someone with a huge appetite who’s looking for a whimsical gastronomic journey. Turn-ons The nitrogen-frozen Taiwanese tomato with firefly squid, ikura, and baby squid opened up the palette with a bite of Arctic freshness, easing us into the richer, oilier courses. This preceded the silver pomfret with Sichuan chilli oil and fermented cabbage. The taiyouran egg with truffle, caviar and Parmesan - or alternatively with caviar, uni, spot prawn and chitarra pasta - did not disappoint; we tried both. Another highlight, if not the star of the show, was the smoked goose with sugarcane, preserved Chinese apricot and morel mushroom. This course stood out as one of the best in a sequence of genuinely excellent dishes. Turn-offs VEA’s high chair/bar stools are heavy and cumbersome, and required a member of staff to help each diner get up and down. The chairs are also uncomfortable, and don’t appear suited to the human form. As for the food, the Mongolian lamb, while perfectly serviceable, didn’t have us in raptures. Positioning such a relatively heavy dish right after the superlative roast goose is a bit overwhelming for standard stomachs. Drinks Cocktail pairings are an additional HK$680; wine pairings are HK$780.