Getting fish maw egg foo yung right depends on the quality of the maw (the swim bladder) and timing. If overcooked, the maw will lose its succulence, and if it's not up to scratch then you'll end up with a watery mess. The end result should be all about subtlety. The metallic tone of the fresh eggs combined with the mineral stickiness of the fish maw requires a wine with focus - something with a high tone to lift the combination. A wine of other drink with precise acidity and minerality would be a fitting accompaniment.
Valdesil Godello 2011, Valdeorras, Spain
While the name does not exactly roll merrily off the tongue, the wine should slip down the throat easily enough. It's fresh, savoury and very minerally. The fish maw is lifted by the Godello's purity and depth of penetration. It's a light-medium weight wine, with no oak, and is delicious on its own, as well as with food. There are few regions in the world that put as much classy purity in a bottle that is priced for everyday drinking.
Available for HK$175 at Victoria Wines (tel: 3469 9988)
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough, New Zealand
Just like our choice of food for the hot summer months, the wine we drink should also make us feel bright and fresh. This wine has been around for close to 30 years. With its perfume of mouth-watering fruit, after each swallow you will find yourself eager for the next sip. It's a delicious pairing for the high and low tones in the fish maw and egg, making every mouthful a refreshing sensation.
Available for HK$268 at Watson's Wine Cellar (tel: 2606 8828)
Martin Miller's Gin, Britain
The popularity of glitzy vodka brands comes and goes, but gin seems more of a constant. Vodka often lacks any discernable taste, but gin, owing to a blend of herbs and spices, has much more character and it's easier to distinguish between brands. Some gins are too overt, some are excessively complex, others are very pungent. This Martin Miller is none of those - in wine-geek terms, you would say it's complete, subtle and caressing. It's a gentleman's gin to share with ladies. Add a splash of tonic, and you'll have a great complement for the fish maw ome-lette. The high notes are not that high; it's the freshness and elegance that make it such a great pairing. The long finish in the drink is artfully driven by the quinine in the tonic, but it's mostly the clever use of botanicals that makes it truly enjoyable. Try this gin in a martini with a twist.
Available for HK$360 at Victoria Wines
Simon Tam is Christie's head of wine, China. Flavour Colours, his iPhone Chinese food and wine pairing app, can be found on www.iwinecentre.com/iwine-en/flavour-colours.php