Czech mate

Google the words "underrated" and "Slovakia" and you'll be confronted with more than two million results. Quite a number refer to Eurovision song contest entries and television shows but it's fair to say that the central European state is not living up to its tourism potential.

Despite its status as an independent republic, since the break-up of Czechoslovakia in 1993, Slovakia suffers from something of an identity crisis. A similarly named country three hours south is partly to blame.

"Plenty of mail for Slovenia comes here," a post office clerk explains. "People don't seem to realise that we're different countries. Perhaps that's where all my birthday cards ended up this year."

One of Europe's newest capitals, Bratislava is a cultural gem struggling to hold its own in a region of magnificent cities. Overshadowed by Prague, Vienna and Budapest, Bratislava welcomes its share of dazed day-trippers who hop off Danube river cruisers, all trying to remember where they are and which currency to use.

The "Little Big City" has more than enough to keep the most energetic sightseer occupied. Places of interest are all within walking distance, which is just as well because public transport is less than user-friendly.