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Cheese board: blue velvet

Susan Jung

 

Cambozola is a Frankenstein's monster of a cheese - or to put it more politely, it's a hybrid. It's made in Germany by combining French-style triple-cream cheese (such as camembert) with Italian-style blue (such as gorgonzola). The result is a rich, smooth triple-cream product that's lightly streaked with a mild, blue cheese flavour.

As it lacks the sharp intensity of other types of blue cheese, you could call cambozola a blue for lightweights, only that would be unfair because, for a pasteurised cow's milk cheese, it's delicious.

Its rich, creamy and nutty flavour means it's good when eaten on its own, perhaps with juicy grapes or a few slices of crisp, tart apple to refresh the palate between bites. Because it melts smoothly, it's also delicious in cooked dishes. I like it with potato gnocchi: cook the gnocchi, then drain. Spread them in one layer in a lightly buttered gratin dish, dot with chunks of cambozola then drizzle a little cream on top. Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper and a little ground nutmeg, but no salt (because the cheese is salty). Scatter some panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) that have been lightly toasted in butter over the top (for texture). Bake until the gnocchi are hot and the cheese melted. Serve immediately.

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