Perfect match: hairy fare

The season for hairy crab is nearing its end. A delicacy that baffles the uninitiated, it is eaten for its rich roe (the term, here, including sperm) rather than its flesh, like other types of crab. The roe of the female crab is bright orange and has the consistency of hard-boiled egg yolk, while the male sperm is white and very sticky. Digging it out requires intimate knowledge of the crab's anatomy or much of it will go to waste.

Hairy crab is traditionally accompanied by Shanghainese yellow wine, which, when good, tastes similar to amontillado sherry. Other drinks will serve - but they need to able to stand up against the crab's intense succulent sweetness, and leave the palate feeling cleansed.