Q&A: Eric Lebel

"I was offered the position with Krug in 1998. It was like reaching the Holy Grail of champagne. I was hired by Henri Krug [who had just sold the house to LVMH but remains active in the winemaking business] and worked with him. So, initially, I thought, 'Wow, I've made it!'"

"There has been a change in the mentality of other regions. They now understand champagne is not a wine that you macerate [soften by soaking]; it's a wine of blending. You blend from different parcels; whereas the backbone of other regions is terroir and one single vine. Some people are jealous because we are a very rich region."

"The art is in the blending. This is based on intuition. You have to foresee 10, 12, 15 years ahead for each collection, and it's all based on experience. This is the artist side, like an orchestra conductor. Then there's the doctor side, with the analytical controls of acidity and sugar. You have to understand the biological, chemical and physical background. There is a lot of science but, without the artistic side, it wouldn't have any soul."

"It's a misconception that champagne should be served in flute glasses, although that might be fine for very young and delicate champagnes, where you need to hide the bitterness and the lack of aroma. Instead of a flute, you should put champagne in a white wine glass. You need to be able to express the generosity of the champagne. It's a waste to over chill it and put it in a flute; you might as well drink sparkling water."