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Hot spots: Mahali Mzuri, Maasai Mara

Christina Pfeiffer

 

What and where is it? The newest luxury safari camp in Kenya's Maasai Mara and the latest edition to Sir Richard Branson's collection of private retreats - Virgin Limited Edition - officially opened its flaps on August 1. The 12 tented suites, which accommodate up to 24 guests, are located on the edge of a valley, with views over the rolling plains of the Motorogi Conservancy. The conservancy is a vast area of land owned by the Maasai people and bordered by the Maasai Mara National Reserve to the north.

I've heard the safari tracks are pretty crowded these days. Is that true? Mahali Mzuri is one of a handful of safari camps that pay the Maasai landowners to operate within the conservancies, entry to which is strictly limited. A benefit of visiting a conservancy, therefore, is that you're able to avoid the scrum of 4WD Land Cruisers that surround the wildlife elsewhere in the Maasai Mara.

How luxurious can a tented camp really be? The tented suites look like futuristic gazebos. Each is spacious and decorated with high-quality furnishings. They have all the mod cons you'd expect to find in a lavish city boutique hotel, including en-suite bathrooms with romantic claw-foot baths. Outdoor decks are furnished with comfortable sofas, from which you can take in sweeping views of the valley below and, if you're lucky, a parade of wildlife. There are telephones and high-speed Wi-fi connections in each tent.

It doesn't sound like a safari camp. Does the design really suit the environment? Surprisingly, the tented structures blend in well with the surroundings (pictured). Virgin has helped make the property welcome by providing the conservancy's Maasai with a new well, a new school and employment opportunities. At the camp, state-of-the-art conservation initiatives, such as a system that recycles water, a tree-planting programme and a waste-management system, are in place.

What's there to do? Daily game drives in the morning and afternoon are part of the package. Within day-trip range is the Maasai Mara National Reserve, through which occurs the annual Great Migration: a 1,600-kilometre round trip between Tanzania and the Maasai Mara involving up to two million animals, mainly wildebeest and zebras. Be warned, though: it's a long journey to the river crossing and the roads are extremely bumpy. Back at camp, an infinity pool (pictured) at the edge of the escarpment allows guests to cool off while enjoying a ringside view of the valley below, and there is also a spa.

So is it a luxury retreat or a safari camp? It's a bit of both. If spotting wildlife from a distance with a glass of Moet in hand (champagne is included in the tariff) sounds like your idea of going on safari, then you won't be disappointed. The open vehicles used for game drives are brand new and as comfortable as any you'll find elsewhere. The game drive experience, however, depends on the skill of the guide and his ability to pinpoint the whereabouts of a dwindling number of wild animals. Some guests seemed thrilled with their game drives while others are disappointed. I found our guide to be lacking in knowledge and enthusiasm.

What about the food? This is another area experiencing teething problems. The standard of the food is inconsistent. My worst meal was a choice of hamburger or pizza for main course (more suitable for a children's menu, perhaps?), the best a variety of deli-style gourmet salads and wraps. Mahali Mzuri's chief operating officer, Liam Breedveld, is a chef who previously worked at Branson's flagship property, Necker Island, so it would be reasonable to assume this issue will soon be resolved.

What's the bottom line? Rates from US$590 per person per night (low season) to US$995 per person, based on shared double occupancy, include all meals, drinks, game drives and transfers from the nearest airstrip.

For more information, go to www.mahalimzuri.virgin.com

 

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