From the mid-19th century, through the peak of its Belle Epoque heyday, to the 1920s, the fresh air of the French Riviera and its informal capital, Nice, drew tens of thousands of tourists each year - but mostly during winter, which was "The Season" in those days. Most hotels, and all of the grand ones along the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, would close down in April or May, and remain shuttered until late October or early November. British and Russian tourists (comprising the bulk of foreign visitors at the time) arrived in winter to escape the cold of home, but in summertime had no need of warmer climes. The only place that stayed open year-round was Monte Carlo, which offered the perennial pleasure of the gaming table. Nowadays, of course, the summertime is high season and, in winter, the tourists - in search of pleasure more than good health - arrive in much smaller numbers. Hotels drop their rates and flights become cheaper, but the weather still hovers in the pleasant mid to late teens centigrade (and even higher further along the coast at Menton and Beaulieu-sur-Mer). As an escape from Hong Kong's pollution, Nice in winter is as appealing today as it was for the tubercular tourists of 100 and more years ago, and the old winter season is ripe for rediscovery. A flight via Paris with Air France is the easiest way to arrive, with Milan by Cathay Pacific being another option if you want to make your way partly by train and take in the Italian Riviera en route.