I often receive Beaufort cheese when I order the 1kg cheese platter from one of my favourite vendors, Fico (tel: 2850 4799). I never wondered about the slight curve along one side of the thick slice of cheese, but it turns out that it's one of the characteristics of Beaufort that makes it stand out - physically, at least - from other types of smooth, firm cheeses (which, you must admit, look pretty samey). The cheese gets this convex curve - which runs around the circumference of the wheel - by being aged in specially made moulds.

Beaufort is a French AOC ( ) Alpine cheese made of unpasteurised cow's milk. It's produced in giant wheels that weigh more than 50kg. The cheese is smooth and firm, and doesn't have holes. Because it's aged for quite a long time (six months or more, depending on the size of the wheel), the flavour is rich and complex. It's often one of the cheeses that go into fondue, because it melts smoothly, without separating. It's also delicious in a cheese and potato pithivier, which is made by laying sliced boiled potatoes over a circle of puff pastry, adding thinly sliced Beaufort, covering the ingredients with a second layer of puff pastry (pressing the edges together so they adhere) then poking a hole in the top and pouring in garlic-infused cream before baking the tart.