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The final frontier: Ha Giang, Vietnam

Vietnam’s answer to the Wild West, Ha Giang’s rustic charm and dusty bars provide an escape from hectic Hanoi, writes Aya Lowe

Reading Time:4 minutes
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A Hmong village in Ha Giang province. Photos: Aya Lowe; AFP

“We would like to invite you to join us,” says a red-faced man to me and my friend.

He gestures to a plastic bottle filled with an opaque substance.

Next to us, a group of men are throwing back beers and chain-smoking cigarettes, and behind them, two men are rounding off a drinking session with Red Bull.

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I sit down and wave my hand over the shot glass, to indicate that I am game. The man gleefully splashes two measures, one for the table and one for me. His buddy laughs. We raise our glasses and drink.

I wince and reach for my water, to take away the sting. The minute my glass has touched the table, my new friend is preparing a second round.

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There is nothing wrong with this display of friendliness, you might think – except that it is 7am and we came into the cafe in search of a morning cup of coffee.

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