Book: The Book of Old Tarts
Susan Jung
Elizabeth Hodder's definition of an old tart is probably different from yours or mine; she isn't talking about an old tart that's been in the fridge for a couple of weeks and is starting to grow fuzzy mould. Her "old tarts" are really old - some of them are from the Middle Ages and even as far back as Roman times.
In the introduction, Hodder writes, "Although the tart began long before the Romans, it was the Romans we have to thank for some of our earliest tart-making traditions. They brought their love of … food to England … Their cooking was a model of creativity and inventiveness …"
She adds that, when it comes to the tart, cooks have always been followers of trends.
"The excitement which greeted the arrival of sugar … the first bananas [in the 17th century], chocolate [18th century] and coffee, the tomato, broccoli, peas … and the accidental discovery of treacle represent key moments in the history of tart-making … The temporary unpopularity of egg whites in the 18th century [thought to induce cold temperatures] led to a dearth of meringue toppings and decoration."
Hodder has adapted many of the recipes for modern tastes, such as using shortcrust pastry instead of puff pastry. And she's simplified the decorations, which, in the past, could be highly elaborate.
Some of the recipes sound unusual (although still delicious), such as the medieval brie tart (the cheese is combined with saffron, mace or nutmeg, and brown sugar); 17th-century broad bean tart; and quince custard tart (the fruit is cooked with red wine). Many of the others seem like they'd be at home in a gastro-pub, including the smoked haddock tart; tomato, onion and goat's cheese tart; and rhubarb and strawberry tart cooked in beer.
Others sound like they belong on the menu of a fancy French restaurant, such as the elderflower and cream cheese tart, and a 16th-century flower tart.
