Cold play As a child, I always knew what I wanted when the ice-cream truck drove into my neighbourhood: the ice-cream sandwich. It was an unsophisticated treat: inexpensive, artificially flavoured ice cream wedged between sticky, soft wafers coloured brown to give the suggestion of a chocolate flavour that wasn't actually present. Vanilla or mint-chocolate-chip ice cream were the only choices of filling.

The ice-cream sandwiches I eat today are very different. The quality of the ice cream is much better, there are far more sophisticated flavour combinations, and what the ice cream is sandwiched between varies from real bread, to thin crisp wafers and macaron biscuits. All are delicious, but I love wafers, and ice cream flavoured with saffron, rose water and pistachios (I discovered this at an Iranian shop in Los Angeles, California) and any of the offerings from Pierre Hermé, in Paris, France. In Hong Kong, I'm happy with the ice-cream bao at Little Bao, in Central, which I visit several times a month for a take-away order of ice cream inside a warm, fried mantou.