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Arthur Arbesser, designer who's a modern master of unusual materials

Uncomplicated but clever, the Austrian graduate of Central Saint Martins stands out for his modern takes on traditional forms and his unconventional fabric choices, writes Kylie Knott

Who started it? Born in Austria, the Central Saint Martins-trained designer started his eponymous label in 2012. He has been touted by fashion insiders as the next big thing after winning the Vogue Italia & Altaroma “Who is on Next?” competition and being a finalist for this year’s prestigious LVMH-Prize.

Why we love it: uncomplicated but clever, Arthur Arbesser is a fan of contemporary art and architecture; he cites German abstract painter Blinky Palermo and German sculptor Isa Genzken as influences for his autumn-winter 2015 collection. But it’s the Milan-based designer’s use of unconventional materials, such as metallic pinstripes and loden – a thick woollen cloth used for outer clothing – that make him stand out from the crowd. His collection features dirndl-shaped skirts (a type of traditional dress worn in southern Germany … think Oktoberfest), sailor stripes and high-neck collars.

What we’d pick: while most of the autumn-winter collection is preoccupied with uniforms, it’s the geometric dress (below left; HK$7,900) and the triple block-coloured jumper (below right; HK$7,900) that best illustrate Arbesser’s love for bold colours and crazy geometrics. For something with a more distinctive silhouette, try the colour-block peplum dress (left; HK$9,100).

Where can you get it? A selection is available at Harvey Nichols in The Landmark, Central.

 

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: BEHIND THE LABEL
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