If cooked correctly, mushrooms can be as hearty and satisfying as meat. Supermarkets usually have at least four types of fresh mushrooms, and some wet-market vendors have an even better selection. Use whatever looks best on the day.

Mushroom and mascarpone gratin (pictured)

This is a delicious and rich dish that is hearty enough to serve as a main course, with a green salad and crusty bread; it's also good as a side dish for grilled meats. We used fresh enoki, shimeji, oyster, chanterelle and shiitake mushrooms, but the combination is up to you.

About 85 grams unsalted butter

850 grams mixed fresh mushrooms

50 grams shallots, sliced

3 large garlic cloves, sliced

100 grams mascarpone

50 grams panko

20 grams parsley leaves, chopped

15 grams freshly grated parmesan

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Slice, quarter or halve the mushrooms as needed so they're all about the same size.

Heat 20 grams of butter in a wok or large skillet. When the butter melts, add one-third each of the shallots, garlic and mushrooms. Season with salt then cook over a high flame, stirring often. The mushrooms will give off liquid, then reabsorb it. As soon as they've absorbed the liquid, put the mushrooms in a large bowl. Cook the remaining shallots, garlic and mushrooms the same way in two more batches, adding them to the bowl when ready. After cooking all of the mushrooms, stir in some pepper, then gently mix in the mascarpone. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if needed.

Melt 25 grams of butter, then stir it into the panko. Mix in the parsley and parmesan.

Spread the mushroom mixture in a thin, even layer in a shallow dish that's about 24cm in diameter. Spread the panko mixture over the mushrooms. Bake at 200 degrees for about 15 minutes, or until the surface is crusty and medium brown. Serve immediately.

Mushroom barley soup

15 grams dried sliced porcini

30 grams unsalted butter

450 grams mixed fresh mushrooms

30ml cooking oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 medium sized carrots, diced

1 celery stalk, diced

1 large potato, peeled and diced

About 1.5 litres unsalted chicken or vegetable stock, preferably home-made

1 bay leaf

100 grams pearl barley, rinsed

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Briefly rinse the porcini in cold water. Put the slices in a bowl, add 100ml of warm water and soak for about 15 minutes. Remove the porcini from the water, then strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve to remove any grit. Slice, quarter or halve the fresh mushrooms as needed, so they're all about the same size.

Heat a wok or large skillet over a medium-high flame. Put half the butter into the wok or skillet and, when it melts, add half the mushrooms and a sprinkling of salt. Cook until the mushrooms give off their liquid then reabsorb it. Put the mushrooms into a large bowl. Cook the remaining mushrooms the same way.

Heat the oil in a soup pan then add the onion and cook until soft. Add the carrot, celery, potato and rehydrated porcini, then sprinkle with half a teaspoon of fine sea salt. Pour the chicken or vegetable stock into the pan and add the porcini soaking liquid. Stir in the cooked mushrooms, barley and bay leaf. Bring to the boil over a high flame, then lower the heat and simmer until the barley is tender. If the soup is too thick, add more stock. Stir in black pepper and some salt, if needed. Remove the bay leaf before ladling the soup into bowls.

Linguine with mixed mushrooms and cream

Time the cooking of the pasta and the sauce ingredients so they're ready at the same time.

200 grams linguine

15 grams unsalted butter

1 shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

150 grams mixed fresh mushrooms

60ml white wine

100ml cream

15 grams freshly grated parmesan, plus extra for sprinkling

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat a pot of salted water, add the linguine and boil until al dente. While the pasta is cooking, slice, quarter or halve the mushrooms as needed, so they're all about the same size. Heat a wok or large skillet over a medium-high flame then add the butter. When the butter melts, add the shallot, garlic, mushrooms and a sprinkling of salt. Stir the ingredients to coat them with the butter, then add the wine. Simmer the ingredients, stirring often, until the liquid is absorbed into the mushrooms. Stir in the cream, simmer until thick then turn off the flame until the linguine is ready.

When the linguine is al dente, ladle off 50ml of the cooking water. Drain the linguine, then put it into the pan with the mushrooms. Heat over a medium flame, stirring to coat the pasta. If the mixture seems dry, stir in some pasta cooking liquid. Mix in 15 grams of parmesan, a sprinkling of black pepper and some salt, if needed. Divide the ingredients between two shallow bowls and serve immediately, with extra parmesan on the side.

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