The Shanghai designer who wants to shake up China’s lingerie industry
Fang Yang talks about her latest lingerie and sleepwear collaboration and how the Chinese consumer has changed
Tell us about the lingerie and sleepwear capsule line you designed for Chinese brand Sangluo. “I followed a concept I believed in: ‘innerwear for outerwear’. The rest of my inspiration was quite broad but with a focus on lines that used representative architecture works from the art deco period. The idea was to build a strong design collection with 100 per cent silk yet maintainan attractive price point. I used a lot of white silks and delicate laces, then white and black contrast piping for the pyjama-inspired pieces that you can wear out.”
How have you promoted the collaboration? “We presented the line in New York, Milan, Paris and Shanghai in trade shows and fashion weeks. The collection started selling in stores in February, in premium locations, such as retailer SKP Beijing.”
Why are there so few Chinese lingerie designers? “Lingerie is still a ‘virgin land’ in China and not given enough attention. There will be more and more contemporary, modern China-based labels.”
You’re mainly a ready-to-wear and couture designer. What attracted you to the lingerie/sleepwear sector? “I’ve always been obsessed with fabric and how it feels on a woman’s skin, so this is new but not a complete departure from what I did before. I was always interested in designing lingerie. It is both refined and intimate; it’s like a woman’s second skin.”
How have Chinese consumers changed? “Until not too long ago, lingerie or underwear was considered functionalby most Chinese women, and certainly hidden – ‘never show it, never talk about it’. For them, as with many other things in fashion and culture, their relationship with lingerie has changed dramatically in the past few years – it is now fully part of a lifestyle of fashion, and can define a woman’s taste, character and social position. The market is growing fast and offers more premium, more refined options.”
