Often inspired by the chic, sexy vibe of the French Riviera, Porte Jacquemus founded his brand at the tender age of 19, while still working as a sales assistant at a Comme des Garçons store in Paris. In 2019, he famously released a tiny version of his Le Chiquito bag, which started the trend of playful tiny purses that is still going strong.

Telfar Clemens

Creating a successful handbag is no easy feat, especially for a young designer, but New York-based, Liberian-American Telfar Clemens did just that with the so-called Bushwick Birkin (Bushwick is a hip neighbourhood in Brooklyn, New York, where Clemens’ studio is located).

Affordable and practical, the Telfar Shopping Bag sells out as soon as it becomes available and has a huge following around the world. Clemens is also a strong proponent of genderless fashion and has been vocal about issues of representation.

GCDS

GCDS stands for “God Can’t Destroy Streetwear”, a clear statement that defines the Italian label’s vibe. The brand was founded in 2015 by Naples-born Giuliano Calza, who lived in Shanghai for four years before moving back to Italy and starting GCDS with his brother, Giordano.

The label’s colourful logo-printed hoodies and comfy separates have already gained the attention of top retailers and celebrities. Thanks to Calza’s deep knowledge of the Chinese market, the company has also built a strong presence in the country.

Peter Do

Growing up on a small farm in Vietnam, before moving to the United States with his parents, Peter Do owned little but treasured everything – something that has translated into the pieces he creates at his studio in Brooklyn, New York. An alumnus of French label Celine under designer Phoebe Philo, Do makes wardrobe staples that, while not cheap, are investment buys meant to last.

The designer has dressed actress Zendaya in a chic trouser-suit-skirt combo and recently collaborated with Italian label Medea on a line of handbags.

Amina Muaddi

Paris-based Jordanian-Romanian Amina Muaddi is the hottest shoe designer right now. Even at a time when women barely go out and there are few glamorous events to dress up for, her Cinderella shoes with their distinctive flared heels have been selling like hot cakes – and never go on sale.

A favourite of the Kardashian clan, singer Dua Lipa and model Hailey Baldwin, Muaddi also designed shoes for Rihanna’s former fashion label, Fenty. Not too shabby for a side gig.

Christopher John Rogers

If the inauguration of United States President Joe Biden and Vice-President Kamala Harris is any indication, the next four years will bring even more exposure to Christopher John Rogers, who was born in Louisiana and attended the Savannah College of Art and Design, in Georgia.

Now based in New York, Rogers has dressed celebrities such as Lizzo, Rihanna and Ashley Graham, but it was Harris’ inauguration outfit – a purple coat and matching dress – that put him on the global map. He is known for his sharp tailoring and bold silhouettes in vibrant colours.

Angel Chen

A native of Shenzhen and a graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, in London, Chen has built a successful business with her colourful streetwear-inflected clothes, often infused with Chinese elements. Chen has also collaborated with high-street brand H&M and sportswear giant Adidas.

Fear of God

Los Angeles-based Jerry Lorenzo started Fear of God in 2012 with no fashion training to speak of. His brand quickly became a hot name among streetwear fans, attracting the attention of celebrities Justin Bieber and Kanye West. Lorenzo has recently collaborated with Italian menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna on a line of chic tailored clothes, showing he can do more than just hoodies.

The brand’s Essentials line, which features wardrobe staples such as sweatshirts and T-shirts, has been a huge success for the company, which is independently owned.

Molly Goddard

The girly creations of Londoner Molly Goddard have adorned the bodies of celebrities such as Rihanna and Zendaya, but it was a pink dress worn by the psychotic assassin Villanelle in hit television series Killing Eve that put Goddard on the map.

Her signature frilly dresses may get all the attention but the designer has built a solid business with more approachable pieces such as ruffle-trimmed cardigans and striped knit vests. It was only natural her dreamy aesthetic would translate into bridal wear, a recent addition to the designer’s repertoire.

Casablanca

Paris-based, French-Moroccan designer Charaf Tajer has put the fun back into menswear with his colourful and upbeat label, Casablanca. Tajer’s influences are varied, ranging from the Moroccan city that gives the brand its name to his North African and Parisian heritage, and the summer vibes of the French Riviera and Hawaii.

The brand’s opulent silk shirts, famously worn by DJ Khaled and Lil Nas X, have become perennial favourites and Tajer has recently expanded into denim, loungewear and even womenswear.

Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner started her label in 2014 by exploring postcolonial theory, black literature and gender and race issues. While that sounds like a lot, the Central Saint Martins graduate has translated her ideas into graceful garments and delicate tailoring originally meant for men but popular among women.

Born to an English mother and Jamaican father, Wales Bonner has dressed Meghan Markle, and collaborated with Adidas and Dior.

Bode

New York-based Emily Bode has quickly become a favourite of menswear aficionados. Founded in 2016, her brand looks nothing like the streetwear-focused men’s labels that have been all the rage in recent years. Her garments are made using vintage fabrics and historical techniques and stand out for their nostalgic and handcrafted qualities that also feel modern and cool.

Bode mainly uses American and French textiles but also sources embroideries and fabrics from India.

By Far

Founded by Denitsa Bumbarova in Australia and twins Sabrina Bezuhanova and Valentina Gyosheva in Bulgaria, By Far is a cool, affordable accessory label that counts Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Gigi Hadid as fans.

The brand’s 1990s-inspired Rachel bag (named after Friends’ character Rachel Green) has become a runaway success. The company has also expanded into footwear, gaining traction with its popular square-toe mules and block-heel boots.

Tomo Koizumi

Tomo Koizumi wowed the fashion world with his debut collection of flamboyant ruffled gowns in fluorescent colours during New York Fashion Week in 2019. The Japanese designer makes his tulle confections at a small studio in his native Tokyo and has dressed A-list celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Miley Cyrus.

While his red-carpet creations are not for everyone, he has produced more approachable pieces, including bags in collaboration with Sacai, a fellow Japanese house, and a collection for Italian brand Pucci.

Ganni

Founded and owned by husband-and-wife team Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, Copenhagen-based Ganni has redefined modern Scandinavian style by ditching old notions of Nordic minimalism. The brand makes chic and approachable pieces that don’t cost an arm and a leg, but stand out for their fun vibe and “Danish girl” aesthetic.

Thanks to a big following among fashion influencers, savvy marketing and careful expansion, Ganni is one of the Covid-19-era success stories in European fashion.

Shushu/Tong

A favourite of Chinese influencers such as Leaf Greener, Chengdu natives Lei Liushu (Shushu) and Jiang Yutong (Tong) founded the brand in 2015. Their feminine outfits are quirky enough to stand out without looking too costumey: think ruffled shirts, A-line skirts, baby-doll dresses, sweet pastel hues and lace accents.

The brand has become a mainstay of Shanghai Fashion Week and is one of China’s most successful up-and-coming labels.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin

French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin learned the ropes of the trade at French house Balmain before establishing his eponymous brand in 2016. He first became known for his men’s underwear collections, which had an erotic energy inspired by the late US photographer Robert Mapplethorpe.

He has since expanded into gender-fluid collections that often explore gay sexuality. His lace-up eyelet briefs have become a signature of the racy brand.

Act N°1

Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin are the founders of Act N°1, a label that stands out in Milan, where prestigious fashion houses dominate. As their names suggest, they have multicultural backgrounds: Lin was born in Italy to parents who hail from Wenzhou, China; Gassanoff is from Azerbaijan and moved to Italy to study fashion, although he was raised in Georgia, where his family still lives.

They make subtle references to their heritage in their collections, which often feature wardrobe staples such as trench coats and slip dresses with unexpected twists.

Nanushka

Known for its popular separates in vegan leather, which feels as soft and pleasant to the touch as the real thing, Budapest-based Nanushka makes versatile and easy-to-wear items that do not scream fashion.

Established by Hungarian designer Sandra Sandor in 2006, the label has experienced significant growth over the past five years, thanks to its popularity among fashion insiders, often photographed in the label’s wares at various fashion weeks.