Three wines from Stellenbosch, South Africa, worth seeking out
We taste a pinotage, a chenin blanc and a shiraz from family-owned wineries based in Western Cape town whose Mediterranean climate makes it ideal for winemaking
Stellenbosch is a town in South Africa’s Western Cape province. Boasting a Mediterranean climate, its winemaking history dates back to the 17th century, and the area is currently home to about 170 producers. Two of the best family-owned wineries are Kanonkop and Stellenrust and both produce high-quality wines that are good value and worth seeking out.
Kanonkop Pinotage 2014, Stellenbosch
With more than 40 years of family history, Kanonkop Wine Estate is now run by Paul and Johann Krige. An intimidating sign in its tasting room reads: “Pinotage is the juice extracted from women’s tongues and lions’ hearts. After having a sufficient quantity, one can talk forever and fight the devil.”
A grape closely identified with South Africa, pinotage is a cross between pinot noir and cinsaut. The variety has endured a bad reputation for producing poorly made wines with burnt rubber aromas and overtly earthy tones. Kanonkop’s pinotage, however, is a quality tipple with intense fruit and ageing potential.
Fruit is sourced from 62-year-old bush vines. Johann Krige believes these vines, which are low yielding and have deep root systems, add to the concentration of the fruit. The cool climate on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg mountains allows for a long ripening season and optimum fruit.