South Africa's Cape provinces, a monster motorbike and a few close calls with the wildlife
A two-wheeled trip through South Africa's Cape provinces allows the rider to get close to nature - perhaps too close. Words and pictures by Christopher Baker.

Arriving at Bucklands Private Game Reserve conjures Jurassic Parkdéjà vu. An electric fence looms overhead and on the massive metal gate hangs a huge sign: WARNING! WILD ANIMALS CROSSING AND NO FENCE. I push the gate closed behind me, slamming shut the bolt, then haul myself back into the plump leather saddle.
The 2015 Indian Roadmaster is a rhino of a bike, but the chance of encountering a real rhino has me spooked. My nerves tingle as I ease out the clutch for the 3km run to the lodge.
"Many of our visitors come by motorcycle," owner Michele Stewart had assured me. Barely 100 metres along the track I hit pools of gravel and sand. Soon I am crawling the behemoth uphill over scree-covered rock ledges. The suspension sponges up the hammering as I feather the throttle and clutch to maintain momentum. But I sense I am riding the full-dress tourer close to its off-asphalt limits.

I am soaked in sweat when I finally pull up to the quaint farmstead lodge.
"Oh! Look!" exclaims guide Owen Ackerman as I dismount, pointing to two white rhino lumbering out of the bush.