North Korean leg of ‘longest train journey’ offers unscripted glimpse into the hermit kingdom
The 800km of railway from Pyongyang to Tumangang, near the point at which North Korea, China and Russia converge, has just opened to foreigners. Post Magazine boards the first train making the journey
“Would you like some soju,” asks Mr Ahn, smiling effusively as he leans across from his cabin.
“At eight in the morning?” I ask. I am bewildered.
“Ha, we Koreans start any important journey by drinking soju,” insists Ahn, twisting the metal top off a green bottle. He pours the potent, colourless rice wine, consumed widely in both Koreas, into plastic cups.
Memories of many painful mornings flash through my mind but, before I can back-pedal, toasts are being raised to this unusual journey. It’s March 1 and, for the first time, foreigners are being permitted to take a domestic passenger train from the North Korean capital, Pyongyang, the 800km to Tumangang, in the far north, before crossing into Russia. The train will then continue all the way to Moscow, making it the longest train journey in the world. An Australian couple are the only two of the nine foreign travellers aboard who are going the whole way to the Russian capital, albeit with stops along the way.
At Pyongyang Station, the excitement is evident as we hurry our luggage to our allotted cabins and stow it away.