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Women's footwear is now about sexuality, attitude, aesthetics and social status

STORYVivian Chen
Rupert Sanderson at his store at Elements mall in Hong Kong. The designer offers shoes with a special Asian fit. Photo: May Tse
Rupert Sanderson at his store at Elements mall in Hong Kong. The designer offers shoes with a special Asian fit. Photo: May Tse

The focus of footwear today has long shifted away from function to fashion

Marilyn Monroe once famously mused, "Give a girl the right shoes, and she can conquer the world". Fast-forward half a century, and the shoes that today's screen sirens have to conquer have risen to a whole different level - quite literally, in fact.

From Lady Gaga's towering Armadillo booties to Victoria Beckham's gravity-defying, heel-less shoes, and the coveted collection of possibly the most notorious on-screen shoe addict, Carrie Bradshaw, the focus of footwear today has long shifted away from function to fashion, while designers debate the balance of aesthetics and practicality.

"Shoes are emotional purchases for women," says Irene Yu, an experienced buyer for Pedder Group's footwear and handbag division. "Many women, including myself, view shoes as a representation of our attitude, aesthetics, sexuality and social status. Putting on a great pair of shoes instantly changes our mood for the better. We are suddenly more confident, taller, thinner and sexier. It is an 'affordable treat' that makes your heart flutter, and makes you look and feel beautiful." While Gaga-proof shoes continue to plague entertainment news headlines, flattering and feminine silhouettes have been selling like hot cakes.

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"Courts are having a moment," says British shoe designer Rupert Sanderson, who counts A-listers such as Kate Middleton and Gwyneth Paltrow as fans. "During the Oscar season, the most-worn shoes by the celebrities on the red carpet are just a pair of simple, pointy-toed, high-heeled pumps. It's no bells and whistles. It's just flattering."

Amanda Seyfried is one of the Hollywood fans of Rupert Sanderson's shoes.
Amanda Seyfried is one of the Hollywood fans of Rupert Sanderson's shoes.

Practical courts and even flats have made major fashion statements over the past seasons.

"In addition to the man-tailored-inspired Oxford lace-ups and smoking slip-on loafers, designer brands such as Balenciaga, Tabitha Simmons and Valentino recently introduced a 'new ballerina', the flat point-toe skimmer that's definitely a must-have this season," Yu says.

Sanderson, famous for dressing women with subtle, elegant pumps, introduced a head-turning pair of platforms embroidered with sushi-roll print to his autumn-winter collection during his recent visit in town to open a second boutique. The print might be playful, but the shape remains simple and minimalistic.

"I don't want to just design a crazy shoe and hope to become famous overnight. It's a slower and more considered process," he says.

"I like the idea of a very simple picture because the most potent and powerful imagery is often just the simplest. By stripping things away, the bare essence becomes clear."

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