Rare and expensive fabrics are more versatile than ever
They say a well-made suit can make or break a man, but the foundation of any good piece of clothing is its fabric
They say a well-made suit can make or break a man, but the foundation of any good piece of clothing is its fabric. While menswear designers experiment with new looks and silhouettes each season, fabric mills are working behind the scenes to develop new and exciting materials that will bring their designs to life.
For most designers, wool remains a classic choice for men's suiting, although the variations on offer are endless thanks to modern technology.
"Merino wool is a natural, versatile material, suitable for all seasons that can be woven in a multitude of ways. There's really nothing better. The most common fabrics are obviously the great classics: lightweight wool textiles are more modern and functional compared with heavier ones; in classic patterns such as Prince of Wales check, twill and houndstooth," says designer Giorgio Armani.
When it comes to choosing the best type of wool, experts prefer the "Super" system - the higher the number, the finer the yarn used to weave the fabric and the softer the fabric is, theoretically. Most men will choose wool ranging from Super 130s to 200s for a traditional business suit, says Justin Chang of Ascot Chang.
The most popular and renowned mills are owned by luxury brands such as Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna, who are manufacturers and fabric suppliers. Because of its Savile Row heritage, Britain is also known for its established and niche mills, including Holland & Sherry, Fox, which specialises in flannel, and Scabal, which recently created the exclusive diamond chip collection, featuring wool with diamond fragments.
Today men's suiting has gone beyond simple merino wool, thanks to new fabric innovations and technology developed by the mills. Many of the new materials are designed with the modern man's lifestyle in mind and are more versatile than ever. Hugo Boss' Traveller collection, for example, features a nano-protected fabric which is wrinkle resistant.
Ermenegildo Zegna boasts a cool effect wool which has been treated to reflect ultraviolet rays and absorb less heat, making it ideal for warmer climates. The High Performance Micronsphere fabric, also by Ermenegildo Zegna, is a revolutionary finishing process that results in a virtually stain-free fabric. Loro Piana's storm system fabric, which is used by Gieves & Hawkes on its outerwear, has a special membrane that makes it wind and waterproof while still maintaining breathability.
Also popular are fabric blends, including wool/mohair and wool/silk, that are better suited for warmer climates and easier to tailor.
"When you get to Super 150s and higher, the fabric starts to get a little too soft, so they weave in some silk for more body. Silk also adds a nice sheen so it's a popular choice," Chang says.
