From bright orange to sheer berry, make-up artists shifted away from winter’s traditional bold red lip for the spring/summer collections. Rag & Bone, Prabal Gurung, DSquared, DKNY and Creatures of the Wind’s cheerful pouts had several proclaiming “orange is the new red”. “It’s summer ... peaches and apricots, they just feel fitting,” says Val Garland, who works with M.A.C and a host of top designers. “They have something to do with the sun, which subliminally is a more positive vibe.”
Elsewhere, sheer textures and softer shades complemented healthy, glowing skin. Lipstick is certainly one of the easiest ways to refresh a look, and this season’s innovative offerings include Sisley’s Phyto-Lip Twist crayon with buildable colour, NARS Satin Lip Pencil in Timanfaya (used at Creatures of the Wind), Shiseido’s newly developed Lacquer Gloss and Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Envy Shine Sculpting Lipstick with 16 shades designed specifically for Asian women.
Inspired by the season’s soft colour palette and the romance of years past, pastels were a popular choice for the spring runways. Make-up artist Linda Cantello chose “diaphanous” green eye shadow for Giorgio Armani’s sophisticated collection, Andrew Gallimore opted for a “1970s watercolour wash” accented with white pigment at Holly Fulton, while Pat McGrath captured a “soft, romantic” version of Sophia Loren for Dolce & Gabbana.
Guerlain’s Météorites Blossom Collection captures the trend with an eye shadow quad featuring a soft metallic green and its signature Météorites pearls in Pure Light. Clinique and Dior also capture a selection of delicate shades in their eye shadow compacts, while Tom Ford’s Lip Color Shine in Pink Dune offers the perfect finishing touch.
SKIN IS IN
“Whatever you do this season, the complexion has be summery, gorgeous and glowing,” proclaims Tom Pecheux, creative make-up director for Estée Lauder. Indeed, from 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang to Tanya Taylor and Christopher Kane, it was all about perfect skin and little else.
Make-up artists relied on a combination of primer, concealer, foundation and strategically placed highlighter to achieve the “little woodland nymph” look, as Lucia Pieroni calls it. Make-up brands have responded in kind with a range of complexion-perfecting foundations, soft blushes and radiant nude eye shadows, including Bobbi Brown’s Nude Glow Collection and Giorgio Armani’s Effetto Nudo series with the innovative Fluid Sheer translucent pigment. Finish the look with a sheer gloss for the freshest effect.
COOLER THAN CATS
Make-up artists apparently became bored with the cat-eye look for this season, choosing instead to create graphic eye statements using all manner of black, coloured and shimmering eyeliner. “The elements of earth, wind, fire and water found in the natural beauty of the face, with a graphic, almost Japanese feel to the liner,” says Lucia Peironi of the look she created for Missoni. Japanese ink-inspired looks also reigned at Haider Ackermann and Rodarte, while shades of magenta and teal showed up at Jeremy Scott and Marc Jacobs.
Thankfully, there are as many types of eyeliner as there are looks for this season. Pencil versions include waterproof options from Chantecaille and BareMinerals, while colourful choices include those from Nars and Estée Lauder. For more graphic looks with clean edges, try perennial favourite M.A.C Fluidline with a fine-tipped brush, Shu Uemura’s Calligraphink pen or Dolce & Gabbana’s delicate liquid liner in new Earthy Brown.