Young couture designers Yiqing Yin, Alexandre Vauthier Rad Hourani and Iris van Herpen are bringing modernity to fashion

Breaking with tradition, young couture designers are bringing modernity to the world of fashion
The art of haute couture is one that is rooted in tradition and heritage - and, as such, only a handful of designers are privileged enough to work within its rarefied realm. For many years, the industry has been dominated by established maisons such as Chanel, Valentino and Christian Dior, but this is quickly changing as a new generation of couturiers has emerged.
Unlike their predecessors, this small group of designers is armed with a modern vision that is bringing the craft into the 21st century. With styles ranging from high fantasy to utilitarian minimalism, they are creating modern yet wearable silhouettes that appeal to new audiences in China, Russia and the Middle East.

One of the youngest and most talked-about talents to emerge in recent years is Paris-based Yiqing Yin. Born in Beijing and raised in Paris, she wanted to be a sculptor and studied at the Ecole Nationale des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. She launched her first collection in 2010, and accolades quickly followed. By the time she hosted her first show at Couture Week in July 2011, she was flying high on the fashion radar, with celebrities such as Lady Gaga requesting her designs. Soon she was lauded by editors for her fresh approach to the craft, which brings emotion and poetry back to couture's somewhat stuffy image.

"My couture creations are based on an instinctive sculptural approach. Couture is an exclusive platform for experimentation and creative innovation and I try to transform exclusive traditional craftsmanship into a new vocabulary of volumes and textures to create a strong and unique visual identity," she says.
Yin's style is elaborate yet edgy, but also anarchic, raw and chaotic. Her three-dimensional designs combine loose, free-flowing forms with armour-like structures. Interestingly, her creations have become more wearable over time, as evidenced in her latest collection. Silk dresses appear subtle but are brought to life with intricate details such as feathers, complex construction and textures inspired by moth wings.
"It was all about finding balance and subtlety while at the same time telling a story," Yin says.
"In the end, it made for very signature pieces, with high creative value, that women wanted to wear because the garments were also comfortable, designed to live in and move with like a light second skin."
Alexandre Vauthier, who launched his label in 2009, embraces the extravagance that has long been associated with haute couture, but transforms it into desirable yet modern creations.
