15 minutes with Rebecca Farrar-Hockley, creative director of Kurt Geiger
She reveals her inspirations, her top British style icons and how many pairs of shoes the self-proclaimed ‘shoeaholic’ owns.
Can you describe your design philosophy?
Create what you love, analyse what the customers like and do not like in that season – because I think they tell you what to do. Another thing is that, if I am not sure, I will never put it in the collection. I have to be certain.
How do you balance aesthetics and comfort when designing?
I’m lucky that I have sample-size feet, so I can try every shoe on – and that’s really important to me. We work quite hard on extra padding, and try to make a pair of high heels as comfortable as they can be. It’s about balance, isn’t it? No girl wants a shoe to look ugly. She wants it to be as comfortable as possible. So we use amazing materials and breathable fabrics, and [we] make sure the pitch of the heels is perfect for how the bones and the feet align.
Where do you find inspirations for your design?
I travel all the time – every other week. I’ll be in Milan, Paris, Florence, New York, Hong Kong and Shanghai. I photograph and look at people. I don’t ever seem to run out of ideas.
As a quintessentially British brand, is there a British “it” girl or style icon you have in mind when designing?
Kate Moss is definitely one. She is a mix of good and bad girls, which is very much a part of our design philosophy. I’ve always liked that sort of rock ‘n’ roll, therefore I like Kate very much. Alexa Chung is another [icon]. I like Alexa’s chic and understated style – and she’s got amazing legs for shoes. She has the longest skinniest legs you have ever seen. Sienna Miller would be a third inspiration. There really are plenty of style icons from Britain.
You’re launching a childrenswear line soon. How is that different from designing for adults?
Yes! It’ll be launched in spring. It’s a lot of “mini me” versions of our iconic shoes – without the heels, of course. There will be lots of quintessentially British items, for example, Mary James, Little Chelsea boots, and colour is a big theme, and also quite a bit of novelty. The “mini me” concept is my biggest challenge at the moment, but it’s surprisingly not so different [from designing adults’ shoes]. I had lots of little children in the studio last week to see what they thought and they loved it – so I’m excited!
What are some trends in footwear and accessories next season?
For spring, it will be boots in general – ankle boots. Actually, they will also be massive for autumn and winter. Others will be fur, velvet and tan, brown or chocolate colour.
Which is your must-have shoe for the season?
For winter and fall, it has to be a pair of thigh-high boots – not just over-the-knee but those that go all the way up to the top of your leg. As a petite girl myself, I used to think those aren’t in short girls’ realms, but I was wrong. We can also look amazing in them.
How many pairs of shoes do you personally own?
Honestly? I have more than 500 pairs … I switch every season and some of them go into archives.
With Joanne Lam & Tina Cheung