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From Coco to Lagerfeld: the innovative evolution of Chanel’s tweed

Chanel's famous tweed.
Tweed is one of Chanel’s signature fabrics. From haute couture to ready-to-wear, the textile, made from carded wool that originated in Scotland, has been seen in its collections since the founder first used the material in the 1920s.
One of Chanel's early tweed suits.

It was thanks to her love affair with the Duke of Westminster that Coco Chanel developed her passion for tweed clothing. The Chanel tweed features wool that is not overly washed to retain its suppleness. Working together with a Scottish factory in 1924, Chanel was able to tint the fabric in exclusive colours to her liking instead of the traditional hues such as green, violet and red.

Exquisite craftsmanship is used to make Chanel's tweed.
Chanel tweed.

In the 1920s, Chanel started making tweed by working with weavers in northern France. She started blending artificial fibres with wool for more lightweight tweed and incorporated wool, silk, cotton and cellophane into her tweeds.

After Karl Lagerfeld took the helm of the fashion house in 1983, he approached tweed with modernity and elegance. He took the fabric that’s often seen in day wear to another level by incorporating tweed into evening gowns and wedding dresses.

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Chanel tweed today includes a wealth of materials from denim to chiffon, rubber thread and feathers. It can be embroidered with glitter, sequins, pearls and more.

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Chanel

How Chanel’s tweed has changed over the years