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It’s a popular misconception that the VSOE travels between London and mainland Europe. In reality its sister train, the equally plush and storied Belmond British Pullman, covers the English leg. After enjoying a three-course lunch on board the Pullman while travelling through the countryside to the coast, you disembark at Folkestone (met with terrific fanfare by a brass band playing on the platform) and are transferred by coach onto another train, Le Shuttle, that passes through the Eurotunnel under the sea into France. Only then do you board the VSOE, at Calais.

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Passengers are welcomed aboard the gleaming navy train by their own personal steward in blue and gold livery who’ll take care of them for the entire trip. The steward leads us to our art deco cabin where our luggage is waiting. There is a choice of cabins and we’ve opted for a Twin (from £3,255, or US$4,270, per person) which comes with bunk beds though during the day there’s no sign of the sleeping arrangements. Instead there’s a luxuriously upholstered banquette seat – perfect for taking in the view through the large window.

Kate Moss booked a Cabin Suite (from £5,208 per person) which is two interconnecting twin cabins and with the option of two single beds or bunk beds plus a bit more room in the daytime. In both types of cabin, luggage space is at a premium so it’s overnight bags only while the rest of your cases are stored for the journey. In true 1920s fashion, there’s a wash basin concealed in a smart wooden cabinet but no shower and the lavatories are at the end of each carriage. For an en suite bathroom you’ll need to book a Grand Suite (from £7,350 per person).

Although often mistaken for the Orient Express, the train service synonymous with Agatha Christie that ran between Paris and Istanbul, the VSOE is actually a collection of vintage carriages. They were found abandoned in railway sidings and people’s gardens and bought by businessman James Sherwood (who launched a luxury travel group, previously called Orient-Express now renamed Belmond, on the back of it). Each carriage has been exquisitely restored, all polished wood and richly coloured upholstery.

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The three dining cars, like the sleeping carriages, have intriguing pedigrees. Etoile du Nord, with its beautiful marquetry, once formed part of the Danube Express from Bucharest, Hungary to Constanza, Romania. L' Oriental, decorated in black lacquer, was once part of the Cote d’Azur, a train taking the bright young things from Paris to Nice. Cote d’Azur was also part of this rake and later joined the Deauville Express. The carriage boasts Rene Lalique designed glass panels depicting classical figures.

There are two sittings for dinner (as well as lunch the next day) so we opt for the later one and request a table for two rather than a shared table of four. You’re encouraged to dress up on the VSOE and evening is particularly fun with most passengers wearing glitzy frocks and dinner jackets (tuxedos). At cocktail hour, the bar car can be a bit of squeeze with passengers crowding in either before or after dinner.

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Serendipitously our dinner coincides with the train crossing Paris so we’re treated to a view of an illuminated Eiffel Tower from our upholstered arm chairs as we tuck into the four-course set menu. The table is beautifully laid with fine china, crystal and silverware framing the lobster lasagne followed by fillet of beef, a cheese course then bitter chocolate and pistachio and soufflé. Dinner is finished off with coffee and petits fours. All set meals on the VSOE are included in the price though drinks are extra.  

While we were dining, the steward transformed the banquette into inviting beds with crisp sheets and warm blankets. You hand over your passports to the steward for the trip so when the VSOE crosses the border into Switzerland during the night in theory you won’t be woken. After a peaceful sleep, you’ll wake to the snowy mountains of the Alps. It’s a magical backdrop for breakfast in the cabin.

While getting off the train in your pyjamas like Kate Moss is not encouraged, passengers tend to spend the day walking the length of the train (half a mile each way), browsing in the on-board boutique and simply watching the scenery as the VSOE passes into Austria and then Italy. Punctuated by eating of course. The three-course set lunch we are served is as impressive as dinner: seared scallops, roasted rack of lamb and a poached pear with salted caramel.

As the journey comes to a close in the late afternoon everyone returns to their cabins. Our steward opens our door so that the window in the corridor is visible and tells us to make sure we look out of both sides. The train crosses the Venetian lagoon and we have an expansive view in each direction. It’s a stunning arrival in the floating city.

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