London Fashion Week 2023: No trench coats for Burberry? Creative director Daniel Lee took the luxury brand in a bold new colourful direction, with Naomi Campbell and Jun Ji-hyun in the front row
British luxury brand Burberry unveiled its first catwalk show under new creative director Daniel Lee at London Fashion Week on Monday, February 20 – and there wasn’t a beige trench coat in sight.
The heritage brand is best known for its elegant, functional trench coats invented during World War I.
But Lee, who joined Burberry in September, took the fashion house in a brand-new direction with a debut collection featuring faux fur and feathers, slogan T-shirts and playful duck prints.
The 37-year-old British designer was credited with revitalising Italian luxury brand Bottega Veneta with hugely popular accessories like shoes and handbags during his tenure there, and many in the fashion industry were keen to know if he could work the same magic at Burberry.
Burberry CEO Jonathan Akeroyd said last year that he was banking on Lee’s flair to significantly grow the brand’s accessories sales and “dial up on Britishness in a modern way”.
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At Monday’s show, the brand’s signature check pattern appeared in purple, bottle green and maroon on everything from men’s suits to knitwear, skirts, tights and woolly scarves.
Lee seemed to underline a theme of cosiness in the face of British weather: one model was draped in a large white blanket emblazoned with the brand’s heritage equestrian knight design, and many of the models clutched hot-water bottles with a check print that matched their outfits. Dramatic, oversized faux fur hats and bags adorned with feathers and fur also featured prominently.
But there were humorous touches, too, such as a woolly trapper hat topped with a knitted duck head.
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Burberry is traditionally the biggest draw at London Fashion Week, which also showcases catwalk shows by designers including Christopher Kane, Erdem, Emilia Wickstead and Roksanda Ilincic.
- When the British fashion label unveiled its first runway show since new chief creative officer Daniel Lee’s appointment, there wasn’t a beige trench coat in sight
- Baz Luhrmann, Georgia May Jagger and more stars looked on as models showed off the brand’s signature check pattern in rich hues, punk-inspired looks, and playful duck prints