Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement

London Fashion Week 2023: No trench coats for Burberry? Creative director Daniel Lee took the luxury brand in a bold new colourful direction, with Naomi Campbell and Jun Ji-hyun in the front row

A model presents a creation for British fashion house Burberry during the autumn/winter 2023 fashion show collection on the fourth day of London Fashion Week, in London, on February 20. Photo: AFP

British luxury brand Burberry unveiled its first catwalk show under new creative director Daniel Lee at London Fashion Week on Monday, February 20 – and there wasn’t a beige trench coat in sight.

Model Iris Law presents a creation at the Burberry catwalk show during London Fashion Week in London, Britain, on Monday. Photo: Reuters

The heritage brand is best known for its elegant, functional trench coats invented during World War I.

Chief creative officer of Burberry Daniel Lee poses following the Burberry catwalk show during London Fashion Week in London, Britain, on Monday. Photo: Reuters

But Lee, who joined Burberry in September, took the fashion house in a brand-new direction with a debut collection featuring faux fur and feathers, slogan T-shirts and playful duck prints.

Burberry’s autumn/winter 2023 collection, shown on the fourth day of the London Fashion Week, in London, on Monday, marked a new direction for the brand masterminded by new chief creative officer, Daniel Lee. Photo: AFP

The 37-year-old British designer was credited with revitalising Italian luxury brand Bottega Veneta with hugely popular accessories like shoes and handbags during his tenure there, and many in the fashion industry were keen to know if he could work the same magic at Burberry.

Burberry’s catwalk show presented during London Fashion Week in London, Britain, on Monday, featured the maison’s signature check pattern, but in bold hues. Photo: Reuters

Burberry CEO Jonathan Akeroyd said last year that he was banking on Lee’s flair to significantly grow the brand’s accessories sales and “dial up on Britishness in a modern way”.

6 of the most expensive jewellery sets spotted on Taylor Swift

A Burberry creation combines a duck print with a feathery coat at its catwalk show during London Fashion Week in London, Britain, on Monday. Photo: Reuters

At Monday’s show, the brand’s signature check pattern appeared in purple, bottle green and maroon on everything from men’s suits to knitwear, skirts, tights and woolly scarves.

Decorative feather elements in autumnal hues make a statement against this otherwise all-black outfit at Burberry’s catwalk show during London Fashion Week in London, Britain, on Monday. Photo: Reuters

Lee seemed to underline a theme of cosiness in the face of British weather: one model was draped in a large white blanket emblazoned with the brand’s heritage equestrian knight design, and many of the models clutched hot-water bottles with a check print that matched their outfits. Dramatic, oversized faux fur hats and bags adorned with feathers and fur also featured prominently.

Menswear featured a red-and-black palette at Burberry’s catwalk show during London Fashion Week in London, Britain, on Monday. Photo: Reuters
Male models wore low-slung, baggy trousers worn with skin-tight polo neck tops, and silver chains and hardware, paired with a red-and-black palette, hinted at a punk-inspired aesthetic.
Models held checked hot-water bottles during Burberry’s autumn/winter 2023 fashion show on the fourth day of London Fashion Week, in London, on Monday. Photo: AFP

But there were humorous touches, too, such as a woolly trapper hat topped with a knitted duck head.

A model dons a playful duck head knit hat paired with a purple coat at the Burberry catwalk show during London Fashion Week in London, Britain, on Monday. Photo: Reuters
The show drew celebrities including film director Baz Luhrmann, rapper Stormzy and models Naomi Campbell and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley to its front row.

Inside Physical: 100 star Choo Sung-hoon’s powerful watch collection

Bianca Jagger, left, and Georgia May Jagger attend the Burberry autumn/winter 2023 fashion collection presented in London, on Monday. Photo: Invision/AP
Edward Enninful and Naomi Campbell attend the Burberry autumn/Winter 2023 fashion collection presented in London, on Monday. Photo: Invision/AP

Burberry is traditionally the biggest draw at London Fashion Week, which also showcases catwalk shows by designers including Christopher Kane, Erdem, Emilia Wickstead and Roksanda Ilincic.

Jason Statham, left, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley attend the Burberry autumn/winter 2023 fashion collection presented in London, on Monday. Photo: Invision/AP
The London displays wrap up on Tuesday, when the fashion crowd decamps to Milan Fashion Week for more new season runway shows.
Jun Ji-hyun attends the Burberry autumn/winter 2023 fashion collection presented in London, on Monday. Photo: Invision/AP
Want more stories like this? Follow STYLE on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Twitter.
  • When the British fashion label unveiled its first runway show since new chief creative officer Daniel Lee’s appointment, there wasn’t a beige trench coat in sight
  • Baz Luhrmann, Georgia May Jagger and more stars looked on as models showed off the brand’s signature check pattern in rich hues, punk-inspired looks, and playful duck prints