From Taylor Swift to Kate Middleton, the world’s most sophisticated women embrace the elementary allure of letter necklaces – Meghan Markle, Hailey Bieber and Bad Bunny are initial jewellery fans, too
- Long before Taylor Swift, Hailey Bieber and Bad Bunny made jewellery with letters and numbers a thing again, Henry VIII’s second wife Anne Boleyn wore a pearl necklace from which hung a golden ‘B’
- Lily Gabriella, Rachel Boston, The Right Hand Gal and Daniella Draper are among the smaller brands offering letter jewellery – while Dior Joaillerie’s Oui collection has been reinvented as Dioramour
Few trends are as sentimental or, indeed, timeless, as initial jewellery. The personalised style has been an enduring favourite since the 16th century when Anne Boleyn, Henry VIII’s second wife, famously wore a pearl necklace from which she hung a golden “B”.
Today, heritage houses and independent designers alike are bringing modern updates to personalised jewellery with enchanting designs and strong aesthetics, spanning gemstone initial charms, chokers and bracelets in enamel, pearl, and pavé diamond; and stunning keepsakes that stretch beyond single initials to meaningful words and phrases spelled out in the finest metals.
Dior Joaillerie, the high and fine jewellery division of the French fashion house helmed by Victoire de Castellane since 1999, has championed precious lettering since 2005 with the release of its Oui collection. A ring, available in yellow, white or pink gold, along with a necklace, bracelet and earrings, spell out “Oui” as if drawn by hand, with a small diamond dot on the “i”, each letter elegantly curled like a strand of thread in a nod to the maison’s storied ateliers. In 2023, the collection was reinvented as Dioramour with new novelties that featured the words “Je t’aime” (“I love you”) and “Toi, moi” (“You, me”).
London-based designer Lily Gabriella puts her own bold, graphic spin on the trend with her Ouh Lala collection which, as the name suggests, spells out the famous French phrase in gold lettering. It’s one of her most popular jewellery offerings to date. Gabriella notes that “in general, my pieces are designed with wearability and comfort in mind, ensuring a lightness of touch without compromising on quality, materials and form. The Ouh Lala collection, in particular, serves as a playful nod to my French upbringing, infusing each piece with a touch of whimsy and sophistication. Crafted with intricate looping scripts of gold or gemstone pavé, these pieces not only embody dainty elegance but also act as fun conversation starters.”
Meanwhile, at Dolce & Gabbana, yellow gold pendants and charms are strung with letters and numbers as part of the Italian fashion house’s Alphabet collection. First introduced in 2021, the fine jewellery line is inspired by the power of letters to gain meaning as they are transformed into words and messages. The pendants themselves are studded with semi-precious gemstones – including topaz, garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot and tourmaline to evoke the warm climate of Sicily – and suspended from chains embellished with a teardrop pearl and a small pendant DG logo.
If it’s subtlety you’re after, London-based Rachel Boston is certain to please. Her custom signet rings can be hand-engraved with a name, date or initials to create a truly unique piece. Available in white, yellow or rose gold, Boston adds flair to the jewellery staple with geometric forms, including rectangular, hexagonal and octagonal silhouettes.