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5 top timepiece moments in September 2023: from Swatch and Seiko to Adam Levine’s modified Rolex Daytona, Hong Kong actor Tony Leung’s Bulgari in Venice and a Bruce Lee tribute

Left to right: Blancpain and Swatch release a bioceramic Fifty Fathoms; Tony Leung wears the Bulgari Octo Finissimo at the 80th Venice Film Festival; Jaeger-LeCoultre adds a new design to the Calibre 101 line. Photos: Handout
High horology keeps ticking and making headlines with the arrival of autumn. Swatch Group sent the public into a frenzy with the new Blancpain x Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms. Celebrities ran wild with their watches too: Tony Leung sported the Bulgari Octo Finissimo at the 80th Venice Film Festival, Seiko dropped a 5 Sports piece honouring Bruce Lee, and Adam Levine spent millions to modify his Rolex Daytona almost beyond recognition.

Meanwhile in Switzerland, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève announced this year’s awards finalists while independent brands collaborated to give us stunning new pieces and designs.

Here are our top watch moments from September.

1. Swatch and Blancpain go bioceramic à la Moonswatch

Swatch honours the legendary Blancpain Fifty Fathoms with five models made from bioceramic material, powered by its Sistem51 mechanical movement and water resistant down to 91 metres. Photo: @blancpain1735/Instagram
This month, Swatch Group brought two of their darlings together in stunning fashion, fusing the seminal Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dive watch with Swatch’s Sistem51 mechanical movement to create the Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms.

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This year, Blancpain is celebrating the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms dive watch. Photo: Handout
For many, this was an exciting follow up to the success of the the Swatch x Omega Moonswatch, the bioceramic take on the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. This time, Swatch took a less familiar name, Blancpain, to hopefully bring the layman up to speed on the legendary dive watch that celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. So now the question is, which of Swatch Group’s brands and designs will get the reissue next time around?

2. Film and music icons celebrate high horology

Tony Leung sporting the Bulgari Octo Finissimo at a press conference at the 80th Venice Film Festival. Photo: Handout
Silver screen legend, long-time Wong Kar-wai collaborator and one-time Marvel supervillain Tony Leung was brought to tears as he became the first Hong Kong actor to win the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement at the 80th Venice Film Festival.

Though he was watchless when he took the stage for the iconic moment, he was later spotted wearing the octagonal Bulgari Octo Finissimo during a press conference. The all-grey watch is made out of titanium and is thin, light and stylish – a fitting piece from the Italian maison to wear at Venice’s celebration of film excellence.

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Martial arts legend Bruce Lee was known to wear a Seiko on a unique bracelet. The watch brand is celebrating 55 years of its 5 Sports collection with a limited-edition tribute to Lee. Photo: Handout
Leung wasn’t the only Hong Kong icon to celebrate a huge moment with horology – Seiko announced a limited edition 5 Sports piece to honour film and martial arts legend Bruce Lee while celebrating the 55th anniversary of the affordable sporty collection.

Lee was not known to wear many timepieces, but the watch he was seen with the most was a vintage Seiko chronograph with a unique steel bracelet whose holes are more often seen on racing rubber straps from the era. The limited-edition piece comes in all black with gold accents, with a bezel engraving containing a Jeet Kune Do maxim that the watch brand translates as, “Using no way as way; having no limitation as limitation.”

 
Across the globe, Adam Levine flirted with the usually taboo idea of modifying luxury watches. The Maroon 5 frontman’s love for Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytonas is well known, so it was at once shocking but unsurprising that he reached out to Artisans de Genève to rework his gold Rolex Daytona 116508.

His modifications include neon green accents, open-worked subdials, a modified rotor visible through exhibition caseback, and – perhaps most ostentatiously – a white bezel and dial that glow in the dark. All told, the aftermarket efforts cost the musician a cool 3.552 million Swiss francs (US$3.9 million).

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3. The Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Genève aka the “watch Oscars” announces finalists

Representatives of the winners at the 2022 edition of the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie Genève. Photo: Handout

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) kicked its celebration of this year’s greatest watches up a notch by announcing the finalists for its numerous categories of awards with presentations of these pieces taking place around the world. The collection makes stops in Macau, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and New York before returning to Geneva.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel, a finalist in the Men’s category. Photo: Handout
Of the competing watches, finalists and winners are split into 16 categories, including men’s and ladies’ pieces; exotic groups such as tourbillons, calendar and astronomy; artistic crafts (such as guilloche) and clocks; and two price-based categories – Petite Aiguille (2,000 to 8,000 Swiss francs) and Challenge (under 2,000 Swiss francs). Pieces are then eligible to win a category award, as well as several unique awards such as “audacity” (a cutting edge, nonconformist piece), “horological revelation” (an exceptional piece from a young brand) and the most prestigious “Aiguille d’Or” awards.
Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Secret Mystery set in emeralds, a finalist in the jewellery category and part of this year’s resurgent hidden “sautoir” watch design. Photo: Handout

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4. Independent brands band together on massive collaborations

Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II: from Dusk to Dawn. Photo: Handout

Independent watches shared the love this month as upstart brands and watchmakers announced collaboration after massive collaboration. Russian art watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin joined hands with Swiss boutique maker Louis Erard on the Time-Eater II: from Dusk to Dawn, sitting perfectly between creepy and intriguing. Meanwhile, artisanal maker Sylvain Pinaud broke ground on the first ever tie-up with pure collaborator Massena Lab on the openworked Chronograph Monopoussoir.

Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator. Photo: Handout

On the more affordable side, lovable microbrand Brew Watches – best known for its square dials – worked with content creator Worn & Wound to produce the Brew Metric Chrono Regulator in three stunning colourways for its signature TV dial design. Meanwhile, rising star Furlan Marri and dial artist Seconde-Seconde look to make quartz great again with their new Hertz Beat, stamping Seconde-Seconde’s signature pixel art on Marri’s elegant sector dial piece featuring its mechaquartz hybrid movement.

5. Established brands sprint ahead of the competition with new designs

Tag Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche. Photo: Handout

Traditional brands were not far behind as we saw some stunning releases from them this month as well. Tag Heuer continues to celebrate the Carrera’s 60th anniversary by executing perhaps horology’s most intricate pun. The racing watchmaker collaborated with Porsche to create the Carrera Chronosprint, which features a readjusted chronograph mechanism where the seconds hand “accelerates” through the first 9.11 seconds of timekeeping across the 12-4 indices, as a nod to the Porsche 911.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Secrets watch. Photo: Handout

Citizen, Jacob & Co and Jaeger-LeCoultre all got intricate with their dials this month. Citizen released the AQ4103 Washi Paper dial, choosing the material for its texture, fineness and durability, and for its use in restoring art and calligraphy. Jacob & Co gave us double the watch in stunning fashion with the dual-time World is Yours piece, but Jaeger-LeCoultre may have just taken the cake with stunning new designs of its much-loved 101 collection.

Timepieces
  • Silver screen legend Tony Leung, who won the Lifetime Achievement Award at the 80th Venice Film Festival, sported a Bulgari Octo Finissimo during a press conference at the event
  • Seiko honoured martial arts legend Bruce Lee for the 55th anniversary of its 5 Sports collection – the limited-edition watch has a bezel engraving containing a Jeet Kune Do maxim