How high jewellery brooches made a glittering comeback: from Rihanna’s vintage diamonds to Lady Gaga’s Schiaparelli dove pin at Joe Biden’s inauguration, the stylish accessory is here to stay
Indeed the breadth of styles, from iconic jewelled pieces to sweetly subversive rosettes and all manner of things diamond and delicate, proves there’s a brooch for everyone. On runways you’ll find Irish designer Simone Rocha’s froths of tulle and dark-edged romance accessorised with clusters of crystals and pearls, and sculptural silver pins worn with tailoring and white shirts at the Jil Sander spring 2023 collection.
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Meanwhile on TikTok, there are more than 122 million views on #brooch, where creators offer styling tips and share their collections.
Frank Everett, senior vice-president jewellery at Sotheby’s New York, is a long-time brooch aficionado and wears one almost every day. Indeed he’s been championing #thebroochisback on his Instagram account for 10 years.
“Brooches allow the truest expression of design for a jeweller. They are not restricted by the need to fit a wrist, neck or finger. They are truly wearable art: sculptures of precious gemstones and metals that can be worn,” says Everett.
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“Versatility also sets brooches apart, as they can be worn in so many different ways. Think beyond the lapel of a jacket. Try a brooch as a hair ornament, like an antique jabot pin through a chignon or a diamond flower on the side of a headband. A brooch pinned on a velvet or grosgrain ribbon makes a fabulous and unique necklace or bracelet. And geometric designs can be worn beautifully as a buckle on a thin satin belt.”
Everett’s collection includes a gold rose brooch by Hermès from the 1950s that he wears almost every day and a pair of bee brooches – one ruby and one sapphire – made by Tiffany & Co. in the 1960s.
Another brooch lover, writer and fashion influencer Jenny Walton recently shared her collection with New York Magazine in a confessional titled “I can’t stop buying brooches”, writing: “Fastening an interesting brooch to the lapel of your jacket or pinning one onto the side of your jumper – gathering a few folds of fabric to create a defined waist – can be incredibly effective and subtle in adding character.”
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Meanwhile, designer Daniela Villegas often wears brooches as talismans because they remind her of her grandmother and great-grandmother.
“When my son was born, I started a collection of brooches for him to celebrate special days – birthdays, Valentine’s, holiday memories or Christmas – so when he is older he can have a collection that we built together specially curated for him that will cherish special moments in our lives. I love when he tells me, ‘Mum, let’s choose a brooch for my outfit,’” she says.
Of course you can’t write about brooches without mentioning the late Madeleine Albright. The former US secretary of state had an enviable collection which she wore as a form of fashion diplomacy. She once told Smithsonian magazine about when she started using her brooch collection to make a point.
“It all began when I was at the UN,” she said. “It was right after the Gulf War and the United States was pressing for resolutions sanctioning Iraq. During that time I had something dreadful to say about Saddam Hussein on a daily basis, which he deserved because he had invaded Kuwait.”
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Perhaps the best thing about looking for a brooch is that given the jewel’s long history, you can always unleash your inner magpie and trawl antique markets, vintage stores and online luxury platforms to find a timeless treasure you truly love.
- Unlike in the past, brooches have been made cool for the modern generation thanks to stars like Michael B. Jordan who wore Tiffany & Co. at the Oscars and Paul Mescal who rocked a vintage Cartier pin
- Emily in Paris’ Lucas Bravo wore a Chaumet piece to the Asian Film Awards while Michelle Williams and Olivia Wilde both wore rosette-style brooches – so what gave this historic accessory a new spark?