Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement

How high jewellery brooches made a glittering comeback: from Rihanna’s vintage diamonds to Lady Gaga’s Schiaparelli dove pin at Joe Biden’s inauguration, the stylish accessory is here to stay

Rihanna’s clusters of vintage Joseph Saidian & Sons diamond brooches glittered in the spotlight at February’s Super Bowl half-time show. Photo: Getty Images
Once mostly the domain of great-aunt Betty and school captains the world over, the brooch has made a glittering return. What’s more, who wears them and how they’re worn has been resolutely unpinned. You only need to look at Michael B. Jordan accessorising his tuxedo with rare Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock brooches at the Oscars, Paul Mescal in a vintage Cartier pin at the Baftas and Emily in Paris dreamboat Lucas Bravo wearing a Chaumet diamond Œillet brooch to the 2023 Asian Film Awards.
Michael B. Jordan at the European premiere of Creed III in London, in February. Photo: Getty Images
It’s not only chic men embracing this piece of jewellery, worn since ancient times. Other recent sightings include the gold Schiaparelli dove pin that Italian influencer Chiara Ferragni wore to the Sanremo 2023 music festival, a piece also spotted on Lady Gaga at President Biden’s 2020 inauguration. Michelle Williams and Olivia Wilde have both worn rosette-style brooches (another blooming trend this year) and who could forget the vintage diamond Joseph Saidian & Sons brooches pinned to Rihanna’s bodysuit at February’s Super Bowl half-time show?

Indeed the breadth of styles, from iconic jewelled pieces to sweetly subversive rosettes and all manner of things diamond and delicate, proves there’s a brooch for everyone. On runways you’ll find Irish designer Simone Rocha’s froths of tulle and dark-edged romance accessorised with clusters of crystals and pearls, and sculptural silver pins worn with tailoring and white shirts at the Jil Sander spring 2023 collection.

7 of Kate Middleton and Princess Charlotte’s top twinning fashion moments

A Gucci logo brooch surrounded by jewels, available at Farfetch.

Meanwhile on TikTok, there are more than 122 million views on #brooch, where creators offer styling tips and share their collections.

Lydia Tufnell, category manager of jewellery at online retailer Farfetch, says there’s much to love about their return. “Brooches are such a versatile piece, [whether] adding them to a suit or using them to dress up a casual outfit. One big part of this trend is the ability to buy into the brand new season with brooches which focus on big logos such as Valentino, Gucci or Saint Laurent. Or you can shop for beautiful vintage and pre-owned brooches,” she says.
A brooch worn by Frank Everett of Sotheby’s New York. Photo: Handout

Frank Everett, senior vice-president jewellery at Sotheby’s New York, is a long-time brooch aficionado and wears one almost every day. Indeed he’s been championing #thebroochisback on his Instagram account for 10 years.

“Brooches allow the truest expression of design for a jeweller. They are not restricted by the need to fit a wrist, neck or finger. They are truly wearable art: sculptures of precious gemstones and metals that can be worn,” says Everett.

Where is Anna Nicole Smith’s lookalike daughter Dannielynn Birkhead now?

“Versatility also sets brooches apart, as they can be worn in so many different ways. Think beyond the lapel of a jacket. Try a brooch as a hair ornament, like an antique jabot pin through a chignon or a diamond flower on the side of a headband. A brooch pinned on a velvet or grosgrain ribbon makes a fabulous and unique necklace or bracelet. And geometric designs can be worn beautifully as a buckle on a thin satin belt.”

Tiffany & Co.’s Bird on a Rock clip, designed by Jean Schlumberger. Photo: Tiffany & Co.

Everett’s collection includes a gold rose brooch by Hermès from the 1950s that he wears almost every day and a pair of bee brooches – one ruby and one sapphire – made by Tiffany & Co. in the 1960s.

“If your budget doesn’t allow for precious gems, start with plain gold or silver,” he adds, “and if that’s too much, find a vintage costume piece.”

Another brooch lover, writer and fashion influencer Jenny Walton recently shared her collection with New York Magazine in a confessional titled “I can’t stop buying brooches”, writing: “Fastening an interesting brooch to the lapel of your jacket or pinning one onto the side of your jumper – gathering a few folds of fabric to create a defined waist – can be incredibly effective and subtle in adding character.”

5 biggest timepiece moments in May 2023, from the Met Gala to new CEOs

Most of Daniela Villegas’ jewellery, like this brooch, is inspired by insects. Photos: Handout

Meanwhile, designer Daniela Villegas often wears brooches as talismans because they remind her of her grandmother and great-grandmother.

“When my son was born, I started a collection of brooches for him to celebrate special days – birthdays, Valentine’s, holiday memories or Christmas – so when he is older he can have a collection that we built together specially curated for him that will cherish special moments in our lives. I love when he tells me, ‘Mum, let’s choose a brooch for my outfit,’” she says.

The late US secretary of state Madeleine Albright, seen here with North Korean leader Kim Jong-il, was long noted for her brooches, many of them provocative. Photo: AFP

Of course you can’t write about brooches without mentioning the late Madeleine Albright. The former US secretary of state had an enviable collection which she wore as a form of fashion diplomacy. She once told Smithsonian magazine about when she started using her brooch collection to make a point.

“It all began when I was at the UN,” she said. “It was right after the Gulf War and the United States was pressing for resolutions sanctioning Iraq. During that time I had something dreadful to say about Saddam Hussein on a daily basis, which he deserved because he had invaded Kuwait.”

How the snake became a high jewellery staple – thanks to Cleopatra?

The shattered glass ceiling brooch that Madeleine Albright wore to celebrate Hillary Clinton’s presidential candidacy. Photo: Handout
“The government-controlled Iraqi media then compared me to an ‘unparalleled serpent’. I happened to have a snake pin, and wore it to my next meeting on Iraq. When the press asked me about it, I thought, ‘Well, this is fun.’ I was the only woman on the Security Council, and I decided to get some more costume jewellery. On good days, I wore flowers and butterflies and balloons, and on bad days, all kinds of bugs and carnivorous animals.”
Two more famous wearers of brooches were Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, and Elizabeth Taylor, who had a Jean Schlumberger dolphin brooch given to her by Richard Burton. Taylor even bought the duchess’ Prince of Wales Insignia brooch at a Sotheby’s sale after she passed away.

Perhaps the best thing about looking for a brooch is that given the jewel’s long history, you can always unleash your inner magpie and trawl antique markets, vintage stores and online luxury platforms to find a timeless treasure you truly love.

Want more stories like this? Follow Style on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube.
  • Unlike in the past, brooches have been made cool for the modern generation thanks to stars like Michael B. Jordan who wore Tiffany & Co. at the Oscars and Paul Mescal who rocked a vintage Cartier pin
  • Emily in Paris’ Lucas Bravo wore a Chaumet piece to the Asian Film Awards while Michelle Williams and Olivia Wilde both wore rosette-style brooches – so what gave this historic accessory a new spark?