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Men play pool outdoors in the migrant village of Houchang Cun on the outskirts of Beijing. Photo: AFP

The last days of a ‘village’ in China's Silicon Valley

Rural migrants who made their homes in the shadow of Beijing’s hi-tech hub will be displaced by city’s latest clean-up campaign

Surrounded by the sleek hi-tech campuses and luxury condominiums of “Beijing’s Silicon Valley”, migrants from the countryside recreate village life, cooking in outdoor communal areas, playing cards and showering in the street.

But their community’s days are numbered.

Demolition crews will soon arrive to flatten its alleys packed with dilapidated, one-room dwellings as part of a citywide “clean-up” campaign.

For months, the authorities have bricked up and torn down thousands of shops and homes that are deemed to violate Beijing’s zoning laws as the government seeks to give the capital a facelift and limit the population to 23 million people by 2020.

Construction workers eat their dinner at the end of a work day. Photo: AFP

Migrants from China’s relatively undeveloped southwestern region have lived precariously for two decades in Zhongguancun – which is also the base of hi-tech companies including Lenovo, Baidu, Tencent and Sohu, which help their employees from other regions obtain legal rights to live in the capital.

Zhang Zhanrong, a stylish woman in her early thirties, moved to Beijing from a remote village as a teenager to look for work.

She was following in the footsteps of her neighbours, who had sent word home to the rural outskirts of Chongqing that people earn much more in the capital.

They all settled on a plot of land in the northwest of the city, where they built common areas and piled their families into clusters of tiny flats.

A woman gets a hair cut in the streets of the so-called village behind the factories. Photo: AFP

They call their adopted home Houchang Cun, which means “the village behind the factories,” but no one knows why it was named that way because there are no factories nearby.

Zhongguancun has been a national base for the science and information technology industries since the 1980s.

“They don’t want migrants here any more. We’re just ordinary rural people and we don’t try to understand the government policies,” Zhang said.

“We haven’t found another place yet,” she said stoically, standing with one hand on her hip while making dinner at an outdoor communal gas stove.

A man sits outside his room in the village, which is home to migrant workers from the southwest. Photo: AFP

She and her husband recently took out a loan to buy two removal trucks. They employ neighbourhood residents as removal workers, who earn about 5,000 yuan (US$760) a month, while Zhang and her husband together make over 15,000 yuan.

They earn more than the average income in Beijing’s private sector, but most of it goes towards paying off the loans and saving for their children’s schooling. They pay 1,000 yuan in rent per month for two adjacent rooms.

Meanwhile, the average salary at Chinese internet giant Tencent is 63,000 yuan a month, and rent for a one-bedroom flat near the Tencent campus costs upwards of 5,000 yuan a month.

China has hundreds of millions of migrants who have moved from the countryside to its towns and cities in recent decades to find work, their labour fuelling the country’s economic boom.

But many remain poorly paid and cannot afford to bring their children – who would have few rights to school places – with them, instead leaving them behind to be looked after by relatives.

Houchang residents said they only heard about their pending evictions from property managers, and were not told why they are being kicked out.

“We do the jobs that many locals don’t want to do, such as sanitation and heavy labour,” said Peng Shuixian, a 30-year-old mother of two who works as a cleaner.

“But it is hard to stay. My kids couldn’t get into school here. Now they’re back in Chongqing with their grandparents,” she said.

Children play smartphone games in the village. However, many migrant families cannot afford to bring their children with them. Photo: AFP

Most homes in Houchang do not have running water or toilets. Public facilities are filthy, but some enterprising residents have built showers by placing plastic barrels on wooden stilts and positioning them over gutters.

“Some of us used to make 6,000 yuan a month as Didi [a taxi hailing service like Uber] drivers. But the government said migrants can’t drive Didi, so we had to find other work,” said Yang Qiang, a mover who uses his home-made shower to cool off after work.

“We work, we live day by day. Can’t talk about tomorrow,” said a villager who has lived in Beijing the longest, 50-year-old Lin Huiqing.

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Wrecking crews hover on edge of ‘Silicon alley’
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