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Andrea Chen

Bespoke clothing is making a comeback among the city's hip young things, but the interest stops dead when it comes to taking up the craft itself.
That's the experience of Ascot Chang, the company whose name appears on the labels of the bespoke shirts and suits worn by the likes of former United States president George Bush senior and film director John Woo.
Ascot Chang himself has passed away, but his son Tony now manages the business - and a third generation is now involved, with Tony's son Justin recently coming on board.
However, despite the company's reputation, it has proved a challenge to bring in new talent to learn the art of tailoring.
The company has around 70 tailors in Hong Kong, who are almost as old as the brand itself - Ascot Chang is currently celebrating its 60th anniversary with an exhibition which is running until Monday at the IFC Mall.
Video: Hong Kong tailor Ascot Chang celebrates 60th anniversary

The last time the brand recruited an apprentice was in the early 1990s, said Tony Chang, 57. "Apprenticeships really ended in the city in the '90s because young people all had the chance to go to school," said Tony.
When Ascot Chang himself stepped into the business in the 1940s, it was as an apprentice to a shirt maker. Now, Justin believes it is time for the tailoring industry to ditch apprenticeships in favour of formal vocational courses. Unlike the catering industry, which offers a variety of short-term training courses, tailoring lacks a clear career path and the incentives to attract young people, said Justin.
"The courses could empower them with the necessary skills, so that when they first step into the field they are not helping the senior tailors sew 10 straight lines a day," said the 27-year-old, who used to work in the family's New York boutique. Though the average age of its tailors keeps rising, the brand has seen an increasing number of young customers.
Michael Macko, a New York-based designer who has been working with the family on their ready-to-wear collection since 2007, said: "Young people into social media and blogs have realised all the options that available to them and want to have that experience - like having their name sewn into the clothing.
"It also makes them feel they are kind of a designer."
Of course, fashion also helps, adds Tony. Since 2006, slim-cut suits have dominated the runway - a trend that saved the bespoke tailoring industry after losing many of its customers in the 1990s, when loose was the look.
"For those young people who want their suits as tight as possible, there is nothing better than a customised garment," said Tony.
 


Hip crowd would rather wear it than sew it

Tony Chang: slimline trends have helped business. Photo: Nora Tam

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Hong Kong

Bespoke tailoring back in vogue as family company Ascot Chang celebrates 60 years


Hip crowd would rather wear it than sew it

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Bespoke tailoring back in vogue as family company Ascot Chang celebrates 60 years

Bespoke tailoring back in vogue as family company Ascot Chang celebrates 60 years