• Mon
  • Dec 22, 2014
  • Updated: 12:19pm
NewsHong Kong
EATING OUT

First review: Jamie Oliver opens doors to Hong Kong restaurant Jamie’s Italian

British celebrity chef not in attendance on opening night as Jamie's Italian attempts to capture mid-range market with inexpensive Italian cuisine. So was the food any good?

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 30 July, 2014, 2:51am
UPDATED : Wednesday, 30 July, 2014, 10:26pm
 

The highly anticipated Jamie’s Italian officially opened its doors yesterday, with streams of diners coming in from the late afternoon to evening to sample what the British celebrity chef had to offer in Hong Kong.

I arrived just before 6pm and managed to walk in without a reservation, though was seated at a long communal wooden table. Already the restaurant, which seats 200, was just over half full and had natural light coming in through the floor to ceiling windows.

It’s a long rectangular space, with one end featuring numerous cured meats hanging over a counter, while on the other side is an open kitchen where pasta and other hot dishes are prepared.

For the first day of full service, there were still teething issues, such as prices not accurately reflected on the bill, or orders that were wrong, but on the whole it seemed to be a relatively smooth operation with friendly staff.

Prices here are the main selling point, with diners spending an average of HK$300 per person. Starting off with drinks, a bellini is HK$45, martinis range from HK$55-HK$98, while some red and white wines can be either ordered as a glass, 250ml, 500ml or a bottle, with prices starting from HK$58 for a glass of white by Alpha Zeta to HK$1,680 for a bottle of Tignanello Antinori.

The menu is straightforward and the items are reasonably priced – a refreshing change for Hong Kong, where diners seem to be paying more for rent than the food. Portions for many of the dishes can be either small or large for sharing or to enable foodies to try more items.

Watch: Promotion video for Jamie's Italian Hong Kong

For appetisers, the crab and avocado bruschetta (HK$70) arrived on a thin slice of toasted sourdough. It was thin on the crabmeat but daintily presented with slices of green apple, and hints of ricotta, lemon and chilli. It arrived as one long piece that had to be sliced in two to share.

Fried three-cheese gnocchi (HK$55) sounded tempting to my cheese-fiend friend, but ended up tasting like regular gnocchi that was deep-fried with an arrabbiata dip.

There’s the option of three planks, or long wooden boards to choose from. The fish plank for one person (HK$79) features beetroot-cured salmon, clams and mussels, smoked mackerel pate and a mini fritto misto with lemon mayo. This was not outstanding nor was it at fault either.

A serving of crispy squid with garlic mayo (HK$60) arrived which we didn’t order, but we decided to try anyway. The squid was so soft that it could have been mistaken for fish. Nevertheless the batter was light and hardly oily.

Our biggest disappointment was the squid-ink spaghetti (HK$87) that was not al dente, served with overcooked scallops and mixed with garlic, chilli, capers, and hardly any taste of anchovies in there.

However things were redeemed with the lamb lollipops (HK$220), where diners take the grilled lamb chops by hand, dip them into a yoghurt sauce, then into toasted nuts, mint leaves and pickled red onions. The lamb was juicy and tender, and combined with the condiments were delicious, though a bit messy. The accompanying polenta was very salty.

The side of posh chips (HK$50) was actually thick-cut fries with grated Parmesan and a disappointing hint of truffle oil.

Finally for dessert, the autumn rippled pavlova (HK$65) was not too sweet, crunchy and had a refreshing topping of limoncello-soaked berries with hazelnuts.

The total for two with four drinks came to HK$839 with no service charge. At the bottom of the bill there’s a “quick tip guide” with the amounts for 10 per cent, 12.5 per cent, 15 per cent and “no thanks” or zero per cent.

Jamie’s Italian is not gourmet dining, but it’s not fast food either – it’s definitely value for money that will appeal to the masses, who want Italian food with a big name behind it.

 

Jamie’s Italian
2/F, Soundwill Plaza II – Midtown
1 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
3958 2223
jamiesitalian.hk

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12

This article is now closed to comments

clivehk
"The side of posh chips (HK$50) was actually thick-cut fries..."
As Jamie is a British chef, I'm pretty sure his chips were chips.
5386d823-13cc-435b-9df3-34ff0a320969
Re: HK-Lover
Jamie is a celebrity chef and naturally the opening of his first restaurant in HK would draw media attention, especially for SCMP, the most prominent English newspaper in HK. And it was an honest review with the feedback of the writer (who happened to like it), which is not one-sided. Honestly, people nowadays need to get over their bitterness of others' success and start working hard on their own. Become as famous as Jamie and SCMP will write about your restaurant/business.
epicentre
Good. Another famous chef restaurant. Another money making scam to offer mediocre food for ridiculous prices. I see it positive. I know where not to go and the restaurants that actually do good food will be less crowded while the massed flock to Jamie's to get robbed.
HK-Lover
Will SCMP also write such nice article when I open a new business or restaurant ?
Why does SCMP provide such free-of-charge promotion for a foreign business man who has not link to Hong Kong so far and hasn't contributed anything socially to Hong Kong whatsoever ?
wailamtmhk
Never pay any attention to opening day restaurant reviews. Give the place a few weeks to "settle in" then try it out!
53e48967-7bd0-4144-b838-4c600a320968
Had a 1.5 wait... but great table service. Poor Portion size. Maybe it's the Big Cat taking more of the bigger steak?
Food certainly lives up to that perfect quote for Mr. Oliver ;
'Please Sir... can I have some more?'
smileavenue
Come on Italian celebrity chefs, we desperately need an Antonio's British or a Fabio's British.
josephbrahmana
It's probably going to close in two years. So don't bother..
cj21356772@yahoo.com
I'm too poor to consuming Michelin like service. LOL!
HK-Lover
All in its right place.
Such an article belongs to Food & Wine in the Lifestyle section but is not front page material. And articles and stories about celebrities are something for tabloids but shouldn't make it to the front page of newspapers such as SCMP.
P.S. Why do you hide behind ****** ?

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