Never retreat, a Mong Kok state of mind
Gritty district has its own breed of protester. Tough, streetwise, and kowtowing to no-one

No one was giving orders and communication was sporadic at best - but within hours of protesters being tear gassed beneath the shimmering towers of Admiralty two weeks ago a new front had opened in the fight for universal suffrage in an altogether different place.
It was never supposed to be like this, but in remarkable times, remarkable things happen, and as Hong Kong Island took its first breath after that day of turmoil, the pounding heart of gritty, business-savvy Mong Kok was blocked by barricades at the intersection of Nathan Road and Argyle Street. It grew organically, as a few dozen citizens scrambled to move whatever objects they could find - from bus stop posts to rubbish bins and construction waste - to build barricades at either end of what is now a self-ruling protest site in the bustling district known for its coarseness and alternative culture.
"We moved things around like ants, while others stood on the roof of nearby MTR exits, keeping look out for the police," said George Chu Ka Wun, who helped set up the Mong Kok protest site late on September 28, fuelled by indignation at the use of pepper spray and tear gas. "All along, nobody was taking the lead, we just instinctively knew what we should be doing."
Video: Hong Kong's Occupy Mong Kok: A scene of political discourse, among other things
Thirteen days on, the site has evolved from just a few barricades to a fully furnished settlement with self-made marquees, tents, beds and religious shrines.