Chefs bid farewell to France’s culinary ‘pope’ Paul Bocuse

Hundreds of chefs gathered in southeast France on Friday for the funeral of Paul Bocuse, a pioneering gastronome who shook up the food world in the 1960s and 70s and helped usher in the era of celebrity cooks.

“Monsieur Paul”, known for his flair in the kitchen as well as his showmanship and business sense, died last Saturday aged 91 after suffering from Parkinson’s disease.

“We all feel a bit like orphans, we thought Monsieur Paul was eternal. His work was eternal,” said Philippe Etchebest, one of the chefs from France and elsewhere who wore their kitchen whites in tribute at Lyon’s Saint Jean Cathedral. “Besides being an artisan, he was an innovator who was able to bring all cooks together. We’ve lost a base, a foundation.”

Bocuse, sometimes called the “pope”, was an architect of the Nouvelle Cuisine revolution which swept away rich and heavy sauces in favour of super-fresh ingredients, sleek aesthetics and innovation.

He routinely did his own shopping at the Lyon market, inspecting the produce available and then planning his dishes for the day.