Fresh look
Once you've taken in the decor and gimmicks, it's the quality of the food that matters after all.

5/F, Grand Progress Building
15-16 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
2521 8638
www.striphousehongkong.com
Harlan Goldstein goes playfully lowbrow with Strip House in Lan Kwai Fong. The bordello-esque dining area has 1950s pin-up girls on red and black walls. For appetisers, crispy Camembert cheese (HK$108) was sufficiently gooey inside, accompanied by fig jam and greens. The crab cake (HK$208) was meaty and delicious, with mango salsa and a sherry mustard dip. Another good combination was house-cured bacon (HK$138), thick grilled slices with green apples julienne. The 12oz New York steak (HK$428) was a solid, juicy piece of meat, while the 10oz wagyu hanger steak (HK$380) was not too fatty and very tender. Diners can choose from six sauces. Sizzling brownie (HK$98), baked Alaska (HK$108) and Reese's peanut butter cup cheesecake (HK$98) were delightfully sinful desserts. Bernice Chan
Located by the waterfront in Hung Hom, Italian restaurant Messina is well worth seeking out. Appetisers are rolled out on a trolley and filled with tempting dishes at HK$60 each. There's prosciutto San Daniele with fig compote, sardines in 'beccafico' candied cedro or citron, Sicilian red prawns with garlic and parsley, and white asparagus. The first course of linguine in trapanese pesto sauce with seared tuna cubes, sea urchin and bottarga (HK$300) was delicious, with a hint of anchovies. Next was the signature dish of crispy suckling pig (HK$430). While the crispy skin was wonderful, the meat itself was underwhelming. We liked the accompanying braised lentils. For dessert (HK$50), a must-try is the pistachio cannoli, and panna cotta, roasted figs and home-made ice cream. Bernice Chan