Cirque du solemn

Henry Thoreau advised, “One must maintain a little bit of summer, even in the middle of winter.” Those are sound words from the noted writer, poet and naturalist, but the fashion world put a spin on them by making wintry looks the centre of the Paris spring-summer 2013 collections.

“Beautiful show, but what has happened to colour and print this week?” asked a fellow editor, as we hastened in insensible shoes towards a cafe on Rue de la Paix for an espresso recharge. “Are all the designers depressed?” Not depressed, but certainly contemplative. The few prints on show weren’t bubbly, retro or floral, as you might have expected; they were graphic and dark.

This might disappoint some, but next spring won’t be about flaunting it all. Instead, skin will flash through cut-outs and lace effects, and under sheer fabrics, as typified by Carven and Valentino.

Tight, tiny shorts and skirts have lost their popularity. Elegant column dresses and wispy, ethereal chiffon are the order of the day, with Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Gareth Pugh all pushing long, flowing hemlines. Eveningwear is back with a bang.

Sensual jazz and film noir set a reflective tone at Miu Miu. Furs and stoles draped over shoulders, denims, tie-dye and crinkled fabrics are quirky touches that only Miuccia Prada can blend to great effect with 1950s-style long coats.

In the hands of Louis Vuitton and Rue du Mail, black and white dominate, as effective together as they are separate. It certainly isn’t the loud, brightly hued carnival that people have come to expect from spring-summer collections.

When it isn’t monochrome, it is softer, pastel hues, uncharacteristically appearing in labels such as Givenchy, Viktor & Rolf and John Galliano. Raf Simons’ debut for Christian Dior’s ready-to-wear line works pastels to perfection, with gentle iridescent details.