OpinionAganovich founders dress to express
Having won fans the world over with a cerebral approach to design, Paris-based Aganovich debutedin Asia this week.Divia Harilela caught the show
In a world where fashion is dominated by cookie-cutter brands and ruled by the bottom line, Paris-based label Aganovich is a breath of fresh air. Since 2005, founders Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor's cerebral approach to design has been winning them fans the world over, not least in Hong Kong, where their work was showcased for the first time in Asia with a runway show this week.
It was not your usual, glam-packed show. As the lights dimmed, church bells could be heard in the background as each model walked slowly down the stark runway dressed in half skirts and dresses that were structured on one side and loose and flowing on the other. Many of the silhouettes bordered on futuristic, with rounded shoulders or cape sleeves, all in a white palette punctuated with vintage green brocade. Later, a pale faced clown emerged, a regular in every show and an homage to Aganovich's past.
"Clowns are based on Nana. When I first met her she used to wear clown make-up," teases Taylor.
"I was young and arrogant," says Aganovich, laughing. "But clowns aside, we like to explore contrasts. For spring it was about gypsies, but at a street level hence the brocade. We are still trying to figure out things that don't go together that will actually meet. This way we can try to create something that is new."
The duo's desire to experiment has garnered them a reputation as one of the few intelligent labels in fashion today. Their clothes hang alongside brands like Comme des Garçons and Maison Martin Margiela at edgy boutiques like Dover Street Market in London and Joyce in Hong Kong, while industry insiders such as influential blogger Diane Pernet have become pertinent supporters of their unique approach. Most recently they managed to grab the attention of Hong Kong based fashion investor Jimmy K.W. Chan, owner of Paris label Rue du Mail, who has invested in their business.
"Rarely do we see a brand which not only focuses on design but on the overall story. They breathe and live the world they created. They are really focused on creating art for our industry," Chan says.